New collar sod

We have been planning the renovation of our collar turf for several months. At the end of last week, we finally got started and are halfway finished.

The collar is the narrow strip of grass that encircles the green, plus the wider section in the fronts (and sometimes sides) of the green. We have included a crude sketch for reference, with the lightest shade of green representing the entire collar:

The old collar consisted of several types of grass: bluegrass, ryegrass, Bermuda grass, but none of them were the best type for the situation. And during the summer, the weaknesses of each type of grass would lead to poor conditions. Heavy traffic, heat stress, drought stress, and insect damage would all contribute to the decline. So, we decided to renovate the collars to bentgrass, which was the best option for our circumstances.

Bentgrass is a much more heat and drought stress tolerant species, especially the particular variety we selected. It will stand up much better to the traffic stress. And while the insect issue will remain- bentgrass is the second choice of the annual bluegrass weevil, second only to annual bluegrass, our dominant species on greens- the bentgrass is able to withstand the attack much better.

At the end of last year, we repaired a few poor areas on the course using this same bentgrass that we are using again now. You can see those sections on holes 5, 11, 12, and 14. We also did a large portion of #9 during the drainage installation we did on that green. Lastly, at the end of the year, we renovated the entire chipping green collar as part of our bunker renovation work at the practice area.

Work started on February 26^th after several weeks of delay due to weather. But with increased labor from the contractor, we were able to get off to a great start. By the end of the first day, all the old sod on the collars had been cut and 12 of 19 had been cleaned up. The next day we laid a full truck load of new sod, which covered 9 holes. More weather issues are expected, but we will finish as soon as we can this upcoming week, likely in only another day or two.

Cutting the old sod first.

It is labor intensive work. The old
sod is removed by hand.

This is how the final prep stage looks.

New sod

More new sod

The new sod will take some time to heal in, longer if temperatures stay cool. However, getting the work done now will ensure that the collars are healed in before the heat and stress of the summer.

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

When parking your cart at a tee or green, please keep all 4 tires on the path

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

 

 

 

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Tree removals for Bermuda grass health

We are in the planning phase of tree work to alleviate shade stress on some areas of Bermuda grass. In accordance with the Bretton Woods Tree and Turf Management Policy (shown in full at the end of post, along with a Bermuda grass health-specific addendum) we have selected 19 trees across the golf course that restrict the growth potential of the Bermuda grass and therefore impact turf health.

We have examined each of these areas and the relationship between the tree(s) and the turf in each location. These trees are not integral to the shape of the hole or to the way it was designed to be played. Similarly, none of these scenarios lends itself to replacing the turf species underneath the tree in order for the tree to remain. So, because the goal is to have the best combination of turf and trees at Bretton Woods, in these instances, the trees must be removed to promote healthy turf grass.

We plan on starting this work in the late fall and winter of 2021 into 2022. The various trees slated for removal are spread across the property, with no more than 3 trees being removed from any one hole, and several holes with no work being performed.  It may not be possible to remove all these trees in one season, depending on weather and time. However, establishing this plan gives us the framework to complete this turf health initiative at different times without losing sight of the goal- improved turf health and course playability.

Though 19 less trees may seem dramatic, it is important to remember that since 2014 we have planted over 200 trees on the Bretton Woods property, with another 14 scheduled to be planted this spring alone, nearly covering the entire loss of the removal project being discussed. And, while following our aforementioned tree policy, we have improved the maintenance of our existing tree population by selecting improved species for planting and removing dead or diseased trees as needed.

We have not rushed into the decision to remove these trees. It is in the best interest of the health and playability of the golf course for the selected trees to be removed. By sticking to our tree policy, we will continue to make these informed decisions to improve the property.

 

 

 

Bretton Woods Tree and Turf Management

 

 

Background:

Bretton Woods Recreation Center is a valuable resource providing its members access to a natural

setting for the enjoyment of organized sports activities and other outdoor areas for less formal

recreation, such as picnics and camps. The natural setting located not far from a major urban area makes

it especially rare in these times of densely developed land, typical of metropolitan areas. With the

intention of continuing the tradition of giving members a respite from the hectic urban life in a cared for

but natural setting, members of the Golf Committee, the Grounds Superintendents and management

have formulated a tree and turf management policy as the foundation of a plan to ensure that natural setting through the ongoing care and cultivation of trees.

Objectives:

1.       Continue the Bretton Woods “low input” IPM approach through judicious planting and species selection.

2.       Promote safe recreation through diligent care and removal of hazardous branches and trees.

3.       Ensure a balance between trees and turf health.

Tree and Turf Care:

• Routine inspection of trees will be performed by the Grounds Staff
• Upon discovery of declining or stressed trees, the Golf Course Superintendent (GCS) will determine and

prioritize the need for Certified Arborist inspection and evaluate the need for care. Factors of safety, cost

and importance shall guide the evaluation, in this order.

• Particular attention shall be given to girdling roots and properly cut to relieve pressure when discovered.
• New tree planting locations will be carefully selected in order not to unnecessarily compete with turf health. Mulch around trees will help improve the tree health; careful placement of trees will help reduce negative impacts to turf.
• Assessments of existing trees and their impact to turf health and course conditions; pruning, removal of tree, or adjustment of turf are steps that may be taken on an ongoing basis.
• Dense, thick foliage can make trees susceptible to wind damage. Pruning will be used to improve their life

expectancy and reduce risk.

• Pruning and removing limbs on low branching species will benefit trees and turf.
• Tree management best practices indicate that trees that have been damaged more than 1/3 should be priorities for consideration of removal because they pose safety hazards.
• Limbs or trees posing a safety risk will be immediately remedied through pruning, removal, or bracing.

Planting:

• The need for planting, species selection and location will be determined by the Green Committee, General

Manager and GCS.

• Diversity is a goal of any planting plan at BWRC, however species appearing on the Maryland Department

of the Environment Noxious Weed List will not be planted on BWRC property.

• Planting stock will be of 4” caliper or equivalent whenever possible, with exceptions made on an as

needed basis.

 

 

 

 

Bretton Woods Tree and Turf Management

 

 

Overall, golf is to be played on the best turfgrass possible. Where trees conflict with that approach, we determine the best management strategy. Sometimes, creating more space between the tree and the grass, by adding more rough, which handles shade stress better, is the best approach. Other times, removing the tree is the best way to enhance the turf quality.

Based on our Tree policy, there is a need for some trees to be removed to promote the best growing conditions possible for the Bermuda grass. Trees have been selected for removal due to their proximity to the turf at tees and around fairways. The shade and competition from tree roots negatively impact the health of the Bermuda grass. In these locations, it is neither possible to adjust the line of the fairway or tee to accommodate the tree, as we have done in other locations, nor are these trees critical to the shape of the hole, as are some other trees we have salvaged.

We have identified 19 trees spread across the golf course in need of removal. These trees:

1.      Are not integral to shaping of the hole

2.      Cannot easily have the turf species changed around them to instead leave the tree in place

 

In some instances, replacement trees may be planted in similar locations to those removed. If so, the new tree will be placed in a position to not interfere with the health of the Bermuda grass. It may also be the case that a location for a replacement tree cannot be found at the site of the removal. However, we continue to add additional trees throughout the property to make up for trees lost.

 

We will be resuming weekly posts starting in March. Thank you

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please avoid walking through overly saturated or puddled areas on greens if possible.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

  

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

New drain lines

So far, the winter has been mild, allowing us some valuable time for projects. A few cold days mixed in have not stopped us from completing 4 separate drain projects.

Winter is a great time for drain projects, but the weather does have to cooperate. It cannot be so cold that the ground is frozen; it can’t be snow covered; and it can’t be so wet that the work makes such a mess that it is impossible to see the improvement. Luckily, we lined up just the right stretch of weather the last couple of weeks.

The other benefit to tackling projects in the winter is that we can focus all our labor on the task. There is very minimal other course maintenance that needs to take place, so all the staff can help on the project. And with fewer golfers playing (usually!), our interruption is limited.

For each drain we followed the same procedure:

1.       We paint a line where we want the drain to be, and remove the existing sod

2.       Using a trencher, we cut a 4” wide ditch along our planned route to a depth of about 18”

3.       We remove all the spoils from the trench

4.       We put a small amount of pea gravel into the bottom of the trench as a base layer for our pipe

5.       Next, we survey the bottom of the trench, along our pea gravel layer, to ensure there is proper slope to move the water

6.       Then we put the pipe into the trench and cover it with pea gravel- we used 2” pipe because it moves plenty enough water and is easier to work with compared to larger diameter pipes

7.       We fill the remainder of the trench with sand- in our case we had enough old bunker sand salvaged from other work to use in all our trenches

8.       Once the trench is full, the sod is replaced, and the area is cleaned

 

Removing the sod from the drain
on #11 approach

We started with a drain in #11 approach, starting from about mid-way across the approach and moving towards the left side. The existing slope is just slow enough, that water is too slow to move off. This causes issues for the Bermuda grass and impacts playability in a highly used area. There was already an existing drain in the left rough to which we were able to connect.

The pipe in place on #11

Next, we extended a drain across the entire width of #1 fairway, about 60 yards short of the green. Starting in the right rough, we trenched a line across at an angle to the creek on the right side. Our new drain empties directly into the creek. We actually found several old drain lines along our route, but they were either too deep to still be effective or appeared clogged.

The pain line showing our route
for the drain on #1 fairway

After we have put the pipe but before we
have covered it with pea gravel

We then moved our efforts to #8 fairway. We completed new drains in two separate locations on #8. First, we added new lines to a wet area approximately 160-170 yards out from the green, in the center of the fairway. Again, there was an existing drainpipe near this location to which we were able to connect.

Finally, the most extensive work took place further back towards #8 tee, just at the bend in the cart path. We added several new lines in this spot. And once again we were able to connect to an existing drain line.

Trenching is finished at our last work site
on #8 fairway

Taking advantage of the good weather allowed us to eliminate 4 of our most troublesome drainage issues, adding about 800 feet of new pipe. We will cross these locations off our list and prepare for the next priority.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Winter cart path rules are now in effect to protect the dormant Bermuda grass- we will scatter much less and be more restrictive with blue flags. 

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

New equipment wash pad

Keeping our equipment clean is a straightforward way to prolong its life. Washing the grass clippings, dirt, and other debris off after each use is a standard practice. We have a designated area in which to wash, and late this fall it was given a huge makeover.

Through normal use, our equipment gets dirty. Grass clippings accumulate on the mower decks in and around the drive belts. Leaves and dust get stuck on the air filter screens. Mud gets on tires and fenders when it is wet. None of this is out of the ordinary, but if not cleaned regularly, it can accrue and begin to cause problems.

This is not exactly a before shot, but it's close. The white pipes sticking
up are our irrigation connections. You can see how the area would get 
muddy from our water, but also runoff coming down the hill.

Many of you might know how grass clippings can build up on a machine- think about the mower you use at your house. The debris under the deck can get so thick that the blade can barely turn. Then, once it dries, it can harden and be very difficult to get off. We try to avoid this situation by cleaning the grass out after each use. Often the grass we mow is wet also. This wet grass sits on the mower and can cause rust to the frame. The clippings and moisture can also affect other parts of the mower and its operation and generally cause issues.

Excavating for the drain basin.

The quick, and easy way to stay away from these problems, is to routinely clean the machine. We do that by hosing the machine down after each use. Near our shop, at the bottom of the driving range hill, we have 2 hoses plugged into our irrigation system that we use to clean our equipment. While the location is convenient, the site was not great. We did not have a solid surface to park the equipment. The cart path leading in, was too narrow and crumbling on the edges. Lastly, our rinse water had no subsurface drainage in which to drain. Instead, it just flowed along the surface making the whole area muddy and contributing to the erosion along the edges of the cart path.

For our new site, we tore out everything and started over. A new, wider cart path leads to an asphalt pad with a drain basin built in. Pipes leading from the basin, take the rinse water away underground now. We built an earth berm to block the flow of rainwater coming down the driving range and diverted it around our wash pad, so that the drain does not back up from excess water. Finally, we sodded all around the new pad and cart path, then used seed and straw for the remainder.

The new drain basin in place.

The drain pipes leading from the basin.

Preparing for asphalt. Widening the road, as well as flaring out the corner
for easier equipment access.

Continuing to prepare for asphalt. Creating the 
swale to divert rainwater.

Ready for asphalt.

The new asphalt pad.

The new asphalt path.

New sod around the pad.

Complete with sod, seed and straw.

While this is a decidedly insignificant change for golfers, it is important for the Grounds department. We have a better place to wash our equipment, which means we can do a better job of taking care of our machines so that they perform on the golf course like we need them to.

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please do not scrape snow off the green to clear your line for putting. Turf damage may occur. 

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Chipping green bunker renovation

We worked for most of October and November on our annual bunker renovation work. We did holes #3 and #17 first. Our last bunker of this season was the Chipping Green practice bunker. This was an extreme example of the need for continual renovation.

Bunker prior to work starting

From inside the bunker prior to work starting

Though our process was identical to all other bunker renovation work, outlined here, the practice bunker receives such repeated use that it ages 2-3 times faster than regular bunkers. The single biggest factor for sand building on the lip of this bunker is the many, many shots hit out in the same direction. On the course, far fewer people will play from any particular bunker and moving the flag shifts the target enough that sand is sprayed over a wide area.

The chipping green bunker does not benefit from either of these factors. Everyone hits in the same direction and there may be several hundred shots taken out this one bunker per day. We must replenish the sand several times per year to keep enough in the bottom.

The dark brown clay at the bottom of the 
picture is the original soil base. There is approximately 2 feet
of sand built up on top.

The glove in the center of the picture is placed for scale to show
how deep the sand is built up on the green.

So, where does all that sand go? Out onto the bunker edge as well as onto the green itself. We started by removing the old sod as usual. Then the built-up sand was removed until we reached down to the original clay soil. We also stripped about 8 feet of green surface as well to remove the sand from underneath. The green sod was then laid back in place. New rough sod was laid around the entire bunker complex and everything looks good as new.

Another shot from inside the bunker showing
the excess sand

A finished shot from inside the bunker

In addition, as part of this project, we also resodded the entire chipping green collar to bent grass. This is the same sod we used to repair the collar on #9 as part of the drainage project we did on that green. This gets us one step closer to replacing all the collars to bent grass.

Replacing the green sod after removal
of extra sand

The new collar sod

Fully complete with new rough and collar sod in place

It is good that the practice bunker is used by so many people. But it kept us busy making sure the bunker stays close to its original design.

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please remember to keep your cart on the cart path when we are “Cart Path Only.”

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org