Recovery efforts

Cooler temperatures finally arrived in August and September, so recovery efforts can finally commence. And we took full advantage over the last couple of weeks laying sod and sowing seed.

Although the season is not over, we have crested the toughest stretch and can start to assess how difficult of a summer 2025 was. May and July were both 5+ inches of rain over normal; the summer was warmer than normal overall throughout, but June had a stretch of extreme heat like we haven’t seen in several years; although August was cooler than normal, it was also abnormally dry. So, throughout the summer we had excessive rain, excessive heat, and drought. Our agronomic consultant placed 2025 as a top 3 hardest summer over the last 20 years, and we would agree.

So, after a summer like that, some turf loss is inevitable. No excuses- we could have made some different decisions- and we will learn from that. Nevertheless, repairing the damaged turf is vital.

-          Greens performed above average across the board. They handled all the weather extremes very well. The lone exception is a small area on the back of #16 green. Some of the stress placed on this particular location is self-inflicted and we have already made some corrections to limit the damage that we cause. We have also seeded this location, and the new seedlings have germinated, emerged, and started to grow vigorously. We should see full recovery here.

-          Collars performed below average this year. We will make some changes to our programs in this situation also. But right now, the focus is healing, and all the collars have been seeded as well. Like the patch on 16 green, the new seed on the collars is off to a great start. Also, larger areas of damage will be replaced with new sod very soon.

-          Green surround rough was another area of the property that had a tough summer. The repair of this rough is more nuanced than the greens or collars. We sodded out some of the worst areas immediately. That sod is rooted and ready for regular play. Golfers will still notice areas that are thin around the greens though. Those were areas that we deemed still viable enough to recover from natural growth and then supplement with seed later in the fall. There are two factors dictating why we are waiting on getting seed in the ground in the rough. First, we apply a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring to prevent summer annual weeds- namely crabgrass and goosegrass. This herbicide does a great job as evidenced by the lack of these weeds. But the herbicide will also prevent any new plant from emerging, including our new seed. It takes about 4 months for that herbicide to break down in the soil enough to finally allow new plants, so we must wait for that window to open. The second factor for the delay is that the seeding process is disruptive. There tends to be some collateral damage, the 1 step back for 2 steps forward idea. We use a large slit-seeder, and it does a great job, but it is aggressive. Some healthy grass will be cut and die. Sometimes some healthy turf will be ripped out of the ground and must be repaired. And sometimes the tractor tires can tear some grass also. All of this is manageable, and we have improved our ability to lessen the impact, but doing all this right before the Match Play Championship is unwise. The course is starting to heal itself with the shift in weather, so we are trying not to make it worse right now. The seeding will take place, but just later in the fall.

We want the course back to healthy as much as anyone. But making it happen can take some patience. Weather must cooperate, seedlings take time to mature, and other conditions must be met, but we are on the right track and have a plan to improve moving forward.

 

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please do not climb up the steep face of the bunkers.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

New family tee plaques

We have had the family tee plaques  on the course for many years. These are tee markers specifically designed for young and/or beginner golfers. Last week, we put out an updated version of the family tee plaques.

The new family tee design

The family tees are very forward tees that were designed for people just learning golf. The original plaques that we placed on the course were made by the PGA of America as an introductory program for new golfers. There are two sets of markers- gold and blue, with gold being slightly further back than blue. When we originally placed the markers, the PGA of America provided specific yardages based on player ability, and we placed our plaques accordingly. Out on the course, there is a plaque glued to the cart path with another plaque in the fairway or small tee box on par 3’s from where golfers hit. The system is actually very good for new golfers, and we do see a fair number of people using these markers.

Over the years that they have been out on the course, some markers have been broken, or they unstick from the cart path and are lost. Several years ago, we were able to purchase a few new ones each season for replacement. But, like so many things, the original family tee plaques are not being produced any more. Searching online did not yield any options either. Because the concept is solid and the family tees are utilized, scrapping the program was not considered. Instead, we worked with one of our tee marker vendors to design a simple, custom design of new plaques.

An example of the raised pyramid on
the cart path

During the design process, we also took the opportunity to make a few adjustments. As mentioned, there is a corresponding plaque glued to the cart path to help in locating the actual family teeing ground. However, these plaques are small, and very flat, which makes them very difficult to see on the cart paths. So, this time around, we opted for a raised pyramid on the cart paths that are much easier to spot.

Last week we put the new plaques out on holes 1-5. Since this was a mid-season, somewhat unplanned upgrade, we are making the transition slowly. The goal will be to swap out more next year, but how many we change is still to be determined.

We hope that golfers continue to use the family tees. And we hope that everyone enjoys the new upgraded plaques and pyramids.

 

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please do not climb up the steep face of the bunkers.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Regrading 9 approach drain

Removing water from the surface of a golf course is one of the keys to healthy turfgrass. Without proper drainage, even the healthiest turf will not survive. Last week, we graded the surface around the drain in #9 approach to help water escape easier.

Removing the sod first

The approach area of #9 is relatively flat. There is an existing drain in the left center of the approach, but after a few recent heavy rains, we noticed that water was not flowing to it like we would like. After a more thorough inspection of the surface topography, it was clear that although the drain was low enough for water to flow to it, there were some significant high spots blocking access. This resulted in some puddles very near the drain, that were unable to get off the surface. Luckily this was occurring in the Bermuda grass, which is much more tolerant of excess water in the summer months. But the Bermuda is not tolerant of water in the winter, so correcting this issue would benefit playability in the summer, and turf health in the winter.

After the soil had been graded
to the new slope

Since the drain was already in place, and functioning properly, we only needed to regrade the slopes surrounding the inlet. First, we started by removing all the grass in the entire area and setting it aside in the order it was removed. Fortunately, there was not a lot of soil to remove to correct the grade. The work was easily done by hand. We also knew that we were not changing the height of the drain, so everything needed to feed down to that and make sure that it stayed at the lowest point. Starting from the edges, we gradually removed more soil as we worked in to the drain. Once the soil base was correct, we replaced the sod. Regardless of how carefully you manage the sod and put it back exactly in order, the surface will still be imperfect. To correct this, we also spread sand across all the replaced turf and used the sand to level out any imperfections.

Once the sod was replaced, we leveled
with new sand

Although the drain in #9 approach affects a very small area, and even fewer golfers, it still was a place for improvement. By simply regrading the subsoil we were able to help water off the surface and into the existing drain.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious not to scuff your feet or drag your putter along the surface of the putting green. This can adversely affect other people’s putts and can damage the turf grass.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Additional soccer work

Once aeration is finished on the golf course, the work at soccer begins. While the course heals, we take time to get the soccer fields ready for a busy fall also.

We have two regulation size soccer fields over near the tennis facility (for those who haven’t been down that far!). While they are not the main Bretton Woods attraction, they do get plenty of use, and we do spend a lot of time keeping them in good shape. We have an upper field, nearest to the tennis courts, that is predominantly cool season turf- ryegrass, bluegrass, and tall fescue. There is certainly some Bermuda grass mixed in as well, and especially after a summer like this, the Bermuda grass can look dominant, though it never can tip the scales to a majority of the grass species present. We also have a lower field, further away from tennis, that is 100% Bermuda grass, exactly like the golf course fairways. Because the two fields are so different, we must manage them differently also.

Using the auger to create holes

The lower, Bermuda grass field, gets aerated the week after the golf course aeration is completed. We treat it very similarly to the fairways- solid tine, no cores removed, often we apply compost as well, though not always. And that is all the field needs. It is relatively new, only 12 years old, and it gets very concentrated traffic, so there is not a large buildup of thatch. If the thatch does start to become a problem, we will potentially add in the verticut and/or hollow tines also. The lower field is also closed for the winter to help protect the Bermuda grass over the cold months. This also reduces the amount of attention the field needs to keep it in good condition.

Drilling holes and filling with sand

The upper field is completely different. First, it is open year-round, so it only gets a break when it is too wet for play, or during the maintenance closure from the middle of August until the middle of September. We are in the midst of this closure now and have a list of regular tasks to complete, but this year we also added something new. The field has some trouble areas that we have been dealing with annually for many years. These spots don’t drain well at all, they are terribly compacted, and the turf does not perform well. We have aerated and we tested the Shockwave , both to no avail. So, this year we went a step further: we rented an auger with a 1.6” bit and manually drilled 12” holes on one-foot centers. We removed the spoils and filled the holes with clean sand. We did this across nearly 3000 square feet. Now we will remove the old sod, aerate just the bad spots with a traditional machine, add some fresh soil for levelling, and lay new sod. It was a lot of added labor, but we are excited to see if it helps.

This is a photo of half the area completed at soccer.

While mother nature helps to heal the golf course after aeration, the Grounds staff heads over to soccer and continues with summer cultural practices. It will be interesting to see if adding in the extra drilling on the upper field will help us improve the upper field.

 

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

 Please be conscious not to scuff your feet or drag your putter along the surface of the putting green. This can adversely affect other people’s putts and can damage the turf grass.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Aeration follow-up

We aerated greens, approaches, tees, and fairways last week. It was a very busy 3 days, but we accomplished everything we needed to, in less than the four days we were scheduled to be closed.

We aerate earlier in the season than most other courses in the area. It works good for us- it is the perfect time for the Bermuda grass, and it is an underappreciated time for the greens as well. Plus, it fits in with our golf schedule extremely well. We can allow time for healing and be ready for a very busy September and October.

Greens

Starting back in 2023, we changed our procedure for greens aeration. No more pulling cores at this time; now we topdress before the aerator, use only solid tines, and use a brush to move the sand into the holes. Research shows this is just as effective for managing thatch and is far less disruptive. We continued this process this year, results were excellent again, and we will continue along this path moving forward.

This is the second year that the course has been closed for aeration. This has been incredibly helpful for our program. Several parts of the process simply require time to elapse before we can move forward. When we were under the gun, knowing the course was reopening the next day, sometimes we had to rush the process and results were less than ideal. Now, we can allow each step the time it needs and the final product is cleaner and better in the end.

Tees

                We aerated tees on Wednesday. First, we apply compost. Then we aerate with solid tines, which help break up the compost and drive it into the soil. Next, we drag the compost into the holes and blow any excess of the surface.

                We do all the tees in one day and this is maybe where the course closure helps the most. We have always aerated the tees on Wednesday, after the greens and fairways are finished Monday and Tuesday. We don’t have enough equipment and staff to do all of it at once. Some of the machines that we use on greens and fairways are needed in a different capacity to work on tees, and we can’t switch back and forth during the day. So, in the past, we were scrambling like mad trying to get the tees finished ahead of golfers because Wednesday was previously a day when the full course was back open for regular play. Any delays or problems meant we were working amongst golfers, trying to get very labor intensive and vital work done, but trying to be respectful of golfers at the same time. It did not always go very smoothly. Now, having Wednesday closed, barring any equipment issues, the tee process is uneventful and easy, and the course is ready for play on Thursday, with no major work being done in play.

Fairways/Approaches

                We treat the fairway and approach aeration as the same surface: both are aerated by a contractor with a tractor. We have a longstanding relationship with this contractor, and they do a very good job. This year we opted for solid tines also- no material was removed. For now, we expect to be on an every third- or fourth-year rotation for coring. But that schedule is subject to change based on testing that we conduct annually to measure the thatch buildup in the fairways, which also takes into account the verticutting  we do to remove thatch also.

                At this time, we also make our second annual compost application to the Bermuda grass. You can read about our compost program from all the way back in 2014. Materials have changed, but the idea behind the compost is still the same. And based on the last two years, we have had minimal, almost inconsequential, Spring Dead Spot, so our overall program is working. Bermuda grass injury has multiple possible causes that can come any season, sometimes despite the proper protection, but throwing everything we have at the problem is still the best defense.

It may seem as though we are tearing the course up during a prime window for playing golf. However, completing this work ensures many more days of good conditions by sacrificing just a few days now.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious not to scuff your feet or drag your putter along the surface of the putting green. This can adversely affect other people’s putts and can damage the turf grass.

 

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Hydraulic spill

Inevitably machines will break, and problems will occur. Sometimes these issues involve the fluids in the machines which are toxic to turfgrass. Last week, unfortunately we had a spill on #4 green.

Unlike a previous instance of hydraulic fluid leaking on greens back in 2015, this was a spill rather than a leak. Before, a hose sprung a hole and was spurting fluid out of that hole as the machine moved across the green, leaving a drip trail of damage. Unfortunately, this recent problem resulted in nearly the entire volume of a hydraulic pump being dumped in one location.

The spill covered with a plastic bag
trying to minimize the movement of oil from the
rain. You can see the stream
of water moving across the green.

The offending machine was our greens roller, one of our most utilized pieces of equipment. The hydraulic output shaft coming out of the pump snapped in two. One piece fell back into the pump and the other piece fell into the engine bay. The seals that lock the hydraulic fluid in the pump fell back into the pump as well, leaving a wide-open hole for fluid to pour out onto the green. The result is a roughly 3 foot by 3-foot patch of dead turf.

In some instances of hydraulic leaks, flooding the area with soap and water can help remove some of the oil and slightly lessen the damage. Unfortunately, on a green we would run the risk of washing the oil onto healthy turf and widening the area of damage, especially in this case where such a large volume of oil was present. So, we were left with trying to soak up as much excess oil as possible and minimizing any movement to healthy grass. Making matters worse was the steady rain that was falling at the time of the accident, potentially causing runoff across the spill and not letting the oil dry.

The spill about 30 hours after it occurred.

As far as repair goes, there are not many options other than total replacement of grass and soil. We will strip the grass off the surface, but we also must excavate down and remove any soil that the hydraulic fluid has seeped into, otherwise, when we put new grass back, the contaminated soil will kill the new grass as well. The one saving grace is the fact that this happened 2 days before we aerate. This will allow us time to methodically repair the damaged area as well as allow it some time to heal.

Nothing could have prevented the hydraulic spill, and there is not much to do afterwards other than replace turf. But we have bounced back from these types of issues before and we will again this time.

 

We are also starting aeration of greens, tees, and fairways this week. The course is closed Monday through Thursday. Thank you

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious not to scuff your feet or drag your putter along the surface of the putting green. This can adversely affect other people’s putts and can damage the turf grass.

 

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Remembering how the course used to be

The night prior to typing this blog we received 1.25” of rain. The course handled it well. It is important to remember how much we have invested and improved the infrastructure of the course after weather events like this.

This wasn’t the most rain we’ve received at once by far, but it was still a quick, high-volume storm. Luckily, it did not include the fierce wind like the storm from almost exactly one year ago. But the rain still washed out the bunkers, overwhelmed the drains, and left standing water across the property. However, without the Master Plan renovation work, subsequent small tweaks that we have made, along with regular upkeep, the damage would have been worse and repair slower.

Prior to the renovations, the lower portion of the course- holes 3, 14, 15, 16, and 17 especially- had no drainage. The holes were extremely flat, and water could not move across the surface and could not percolate into the soil fast enough. We were left with large areas of standing water for days on end where no grass could survive.

15 fairway 2 days after rainstorm, prior to 
drainage installation

Once the drainage was installed, water could find a way off the surface and off the course. Now, water backs up at drain inlets for a matter of hours rather than days, and even that is only after the largest storms. We occasionally must deal with clogged drains but even then, water is still moving better and faster prior to the drainage installation.

The old fairway bunkers on #18
prior to renovation

The idea is the same with the bunkers. Prior to the bunkers being rebuilt, the design of the original bunkers was not conducive to withstanding heavy rainfall. The sand was pushed high up the slopes of the bunkers, and nothing was holding it in place when the water came rushing down the edges. Once that sand was washed away, next came the erosion of soil underneath. All this contamination led to water being unable to drain out of the bunkers properly. The silt and soil fill the gaps between sand particles, and it becomes nearly impenetrable. The water would puddle in the bunkers indefinitely, until we manually pumped it out. Across the course, pumping the bunkers could take 2-4 days depending on how much rain had fallen. That time frame does not include shoveling the sand back into place. Full bunker repair from a big storm could take our entire staff a full week to complete.

The old approach bunker on #18
prior to renovation

Fast forward to the storm yesterday and nearly every bunker had some extent of sand erosion along the edges. But not soil erosion because of the new design of the bunkers with grass down the slopes to where the sand is nearly flat at the bottom. The drainage inside the bunkers all functions properly and there is no silt contamination within the sand, so water very rarely puddles. If there is a puddle in a bunker, it is because the water draining out of the bunker must wait its turn to flow into the same drains as everything else. It is only a matter of a few hours or less for the water to clear. We don’t have to pump bunkers anymore, at all. And repairing the sand now takes anywhere from a few hours to possibly a full day depending on the severity of the storm. Yesterday’s storm took four hours to repair.

The old fairway bunker on #10
prior to renovation

Sometimes it is hard to remember how the course used to perform during heavy rainstorms. Now, we must look at old pictures to remember how poorly the course would handle the storms instead of still dealing with the repair work. Making the necessary changes to the course and continuing our regular maintenance of that infrastructure has paid off.

On of the renovated bunkers after the storm

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please don’t stand in one place for an extended period to practice putting. Your footprints can be worn into the green.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

The good, ok, bad, and ugly

We are over halfway through the summer, and in the middle of the hardest stretch. The course has weathered the season fairly well so far. As is the case, nothing is perfect and we have some good, ok, bad and ugly as well.

First, the good: the Bermuda grass. Our Bermuda grass has been very strong since early spring. Now, coupled with nearly perfect Bermuda grass growing weather- warm, humid, and plenty of moisture- the fairways and tees are nearly flawless. We just completed our annual vertical mowing process and they are set for the home stretch. We still have aeration to come, but healing will be swift, and the Bermuda grass will play great the rest of the season.

The greens are just ok. Our predominant grass on greens is Poa annua, which does not like the heat at all. Luckily the species is very adaptable and has learned to tolerate the heat and stress that we subject it to, but it is still a battle. The greens take constant monitoring, and even with that, we have struggled in a few areas. As the soil temperatures rise, root growth stops, and roots even shrink. Water-logged soil can exacerbate the loss of roots and what we are left with is very weak plants that are susceptible to all stressors. With short roots, we also must deal with small areas that dry out even when we recently received rain. Here is an easy way to think about it: short roots are like a short straw in a cup- there might be plenty of water further down in the cup, but the straw can’t reach it. That can be the case with the roots as well. The soil may have moisture even just an inch or so down in the profile, but short roots cannot access it. Lastly, weak plants necessitate more babying, which leads to slower green speeds. It is a fact at this time of year that greens are slower, but we have kept them smooth and true and most importantly: alive.

On the other hand, spots on collars and green surrounds are bad. The biggest contributing factor to this is the weather. We are not using the weather as an excuse, but it is undeniably the single most important factor in turf management. Very hot, humid weather is good for the Bermuda grass but not for the other turf. However, the weather is not the only cause. We made some mistakes this year with some of our cultural practices also, and we need to make some adjustments, which we will. We are not making excuses, but we will learn from this and improve for next year.

Which brings us to the ugly: we have been without one or both of our large rough mowers since early June. Both machines have had major mechanical and electrical problems and have been at the dealer for repairs. We expect both machines to be back today (Monday 7/21). We have been struggling to mow rough with any other machines that we can, but we haven’t been able to keep up. This has left us with long, inconsistent rough around the fairways and other open areas.

The summer is not over yet, and it has already been long and hard. As always, we are not throwing in the towel, but we are aware of the poor areas, and we will keep working to get things better this year and beyond.

 

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please don’t stand in one place for an extended period to practice putting. Your footprints can be worn into the green.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Another drainage issue

After another rainstorm this past week, a puddle formed and lingered at the drains on #16. We found another root ball, in the same pipe, about 15 feet away from the first one.

Two weeks ago we cleared a very large root ball  out of the drain pipe on #16. Water had been very slow to drain, and puddles had formed around the inlets. After some exploration and jetting with a hose, we determined something more solid was blocking the water. We found a very large mass of roots.

This is a phot of the root ball from late June

Last week there was standing water around the same inlets on #16. Again, we tried to jet the pipe with a hose, assuming the chances of another blockage that soon was unlikely. The hose was quickly blocked again though and we didn’t waste any time before starting to dig. And unbelievably, in the same pipe, within 15 feet of the first root ball, we found a second one that was just as big.

 

As similar as the photos appear, this is
a picture of the second root ball from early July

Somehow, clearing the first ball of roots cleared enough space in the pipe to give the appearance that everything was free flowing. As soon as the first one was removed, water raced down the drains. However, the next heavy rainstorm showed that to be short-lived and we were right back to square one.

Here is a picture showing the excavation 
of the second root ball. To the right, outlined in red, 
is the replaced sod from the first repair

We checked the location of the drains early in the morning after the rain and we were shocked to see how much water was still not draining. We were even more shocked to find a second root mass. Nevertheless, we think the drain is clear, for now, but who knows what will happen next!

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please don’t stand in one place for an extended period to practice putting. Your footprints can be worn into the green.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Fairway vertical mowing

Vertical mowing of playing surfaces is a very good way to ensure the best conditions possible. We verticut greens in the spring and fall and complete the process on the Bermuda grass in the summer. This week we are starting the fairways.

Last year was the first time in several years that we were able to complete a full fairway vertical mowing program. Weak turf, new turf, or both prevented us from aggressively thinning the Bermuda grass. But the turf was ready last year, and we are in an even better position this year.

Vertical mowing cuts down into the plant and soil as opposed to cutting across the surface. For grasses like Bermuda grass which have stolons and rhizomes- which are horizontal stems that grow on or just below the surface- cutting vertically can encourage new, fresh growth. Also, by cutting and removing some of the stem tissue, it opens the canopy and revitalizes the existing turf.

Verticutting the fairways is a time consuming and aggressive procedure. We have a large acreage of fairways, and the machine is only 5 feet wide, meaning lots of passes up and down to cover all that space. The process also produces lots of debris which must be cleaned off the fairways. After the vertical mowing we will drag the fairways to knock any good soil back down to the surface, and to help break apart the stems that have been cut. Then we will blow as much loose material off the as possible. Then we mow the fairways to cut all the stragglers that are tufted up. Lastly, we will blow again to clean off the clippings from the regular mowing.

Although it will take 7-10 days for the fairways to heal from the verticutting, taking one step back leads to two steps forward. The fairways will be in better condition and better health after this work than they are prior.

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please don’t stand in one place for an extended period to practice putting. Your footprints can be worn into the green.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Shockwave

Soil compaction and drainage are two of the most important factors for growing good, healthy turfgrass. Dating all the way back to construction, we have dealt with some severe compaction issues from the earth moving equipment that performed the renovations. Especially, in some approach areas, the compaction has led to struggling turf over several years. Last week, we tested a different type of aerator to help alleviate some of the tight soils.

The machine we tried is called a Shockwave and it is a linear aerator. Instead of poking holes down into the soil vertically like a traditional aerator, the Shockwave has 12” knives that slice down into the soil and then carve a channel linearly as the machine moves forward. Working depth can be set from 4-10”. The blades are offset on the shaft so that across the machine there are always blades in the ground, and multiple blades per position so that a blade is always down in each channel creating a continuous slice. The Shockwave is very good at breaking up hard soil, and it can also help with drainage because water will follow the new channels.

It is hard to see, but this is a photo of
the knives that slice down into the soil

Since we were only testing the machine, we prioritized our most troublesome areas to work through first. We made multiple passes across every approach, with some approaches getting more attention than others. We ran the machine in several different directions, trying to break up as much compaction as possible, and we also made some angled passes from higher points to lower points to help move water more efficiently. Although the machine must be operated slowly- the company recommends .5-1 mph- it was very easy to use and left a clean, playable surface behind.

After completing the approaches, our next priority was some drainage swales on #15 fairway, a large portion of #17 fairway, and a large portion of #18 fairway. These were all areas that were heavily excavated and compacted during construction also and that give us trouble throughout the year. Finally, we did a section from about 100 yards and in to the green on #1, two small sections on #4 fairway, all along the right side of #5 fairway, everything from 200 yards and in to the green on #7 fairway, and a few very small areas on #11, 12 and 13 fairways. We finished with the machine over on the soccer field, which interestingly enough, had a few areas of soil that even the Shockwave couldn’t penetrate!

All this work was done at a depth of about 4.5-5”. It will take some time to see the full benefits of the aeration, but we did break through some hard soil, which can only help the health of the turf. As the turf continues to grow through this season, it should be able to root better and slightly deeper because of the lines we cut. This better rooting will lead to a stronger plant now and for the winter, and the stronger the plant is for winter, the better it breaks dormancy in the spring. Moving forward, if we were to purchase one of these machines, we would work on cutting deeper in some of the trouble areas, as well as slicing more acreage in total.

In the short term, there are some stolons of Bermuda grass that were cut by the knives and wilted and died, though fewer than we expected. The healthy Bermuda grass will heal in over these lines in a short time and all the scarring will disappear. There should be some immediate impacts on water movement through the sliced areas as water will find these channels and flow easier.

Even though we were only testing the machine, we were able to work through all our top priorities before our time was up. This is not a cure for all that can hurt the Bermuda grass, but if we can slowly work on reducing the factors working against the turf, the turf health will continue to improve.

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

When you splash bunker sand onto the green after your shot, please brush away any large piles or clumps that may have ended up on the green.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Another drainage update

The weather dictates nearly every aspect of our operation: what we can and cannot accomplish, and what problems we must deal with. Due to the rain in the last couple of weeks, dealing with water issues has been our focus.

Work at #13 green

#13 green

Early on last week we dealt with two more drains that were not emptying in the best locations, just like we wrote about in the previous blog. This time, work was done at #2 green and #13 green. #2 green was very simple- the drain ended about 15 feet short of where we wanted it, so the trench was extended, and new pipe was added. #13 was slightly more complicated because the last junction box for the drain line had no exit. Water simply filled the box and overflowed out into the surrounding area. Sometimes this is ok- letting the water surface and run away is what we do when we terminate at cart path edges. However, in the case at #13 green, the overflowing water was not getting away fast enough and was turning the whole area into a wet, muddy mess. Again, we trenched in a new pipe, and this was connected into the box to provide an outlet for collecting water. #2 and #13 were relatively easy fixes and probably should have been done sooner than they were, but we finished them, nevertheless.

#13 green

Replacing the sod at #13 green

The backup of water to the left of #16 was a different story. In all the previous examples, the troublesome pipes were installed many years ago, and things changed over time, so adjustments needed to be made. The water near #16, however, was sitting over the top of drain inlets, that we helped install relatively recently, and are fully aware of where the pipes start and end. Seeing water sitting for so long directly over the top of drains was concerning. Unfortunately, with so much rain, it was difficult to decipher what was draining slowly because of sheer volume and what was moving slowly because of a problem.

The backed up water at #16

Another blocked drain at #16

Finally, once the rain stopped late last week, we were sure that some other problem existed besides too much water. Probing up into the pipe, we discovered a blockage about 25 feet up inside that was restricting flow. We excavated at that position and discovered an enormous root ball that had penetrated the pipe, exploded in size, and choked off nearly 95% of the flow through the 6” pipe. Once the root mass was removed, water rushed down the pipe, and the stagnant water above the drain inlets was gone in a matter of minutes.

The root mass that was inside a 6" pipe on #16
sitting next to a hat for size reference. 
We didn't weight it, but I would guess it weighed
at least 7 or 8 pounds!

We haven’t mowed much grass recently, which we will make up for this coming week, but we were not short of other issues to work on. We solved some issues that the excess water presented. No matter what the weather is doing, one way or another, it keeps us on our toes.

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

When you splash bunker sand onto the green after your shot, please brush away any large piles or clumps that may have ended up on the green.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Drain extensions

Sometimes a shift in the weather is all it takes to give a new perspective on the course. In this case, May was a very wet month, and the excessive water highlighted where two drains were not working as intended. This past week we made some changes to handle water in these places in the future.

One of the most important, but also the most difficult aspect of installing drainage is locating where to daylight the pipe. Extremely long runs of pipe, surface topography, or other factors can make locating an exit point hard. Getting this wrong can lead to correcting a wet spot in one place only for the water exiting your drain to cause a new wet spot because you didn’t get the exit point located correctly, which only leads to more work. This was the case with the two drains we worked on last week, one on #9 and the other on #12.

Both drains have been operating correctly- water has been removed from the surface and flowed in the pipe as intended. Unfortunately, the exit point has become a secondary wet spot and causes us some issues with mowing. In both cases, most of the time there are no issues with the location of the drains. The water weeps out at the end and soaks into the surrounding soil. However, when the surrounding soil is saturated from rain and the water keeps seeping out of the drain also, then the water can’t percolate down, and it becomes a sloppy mess. We can’t mow the section that is too wet, or if we accidentally do, or if a cart drives through, we get ruts and destroyed turf.

So, the best solution that we have in most cases is to extend the drainpipe to a better termination point. Sometimes that might be to another drain, maybe to a point much further away and less in play, or in some cases, right to the cart path where the water can wash onto the path. For the drain on #9, we chose this last option: extending right up to the cart path. The drain still bleeds out onto the surface, but now it is onto a hard surface that can be driven on by carts and machines.

 

It turns out we were so busy with many different tasks, 
that we did not take any pictures during the project! Here is
a quick shot of the completed work on #9.

The drain on #12 was slightly different. We didn’t have a cart path nearby enough to get to and there was no additional drain into which we could empty. Instead, we extended this drain far enough so that it no longer impacts our mowing pattern and should be far enough away that most if not all carts will no longer drive through the exit point.

This is not the first time we have extended drains in this fashion. Just last year we extended a drain near #5 green and in the past we moved a drain at #13 green. The process is relatively simple, and we can easily finish in a day. Most of these drains are not very deep, so once we determine a new ending point, we hand dig a new trench to there, expose the old pipe, connect the new pipe, and backfill. In most cases we aren’t moving the drain further than about 20 feet, sometimes much less, so progress is made quickly.

Controlling and removing water is one of the most important aspects of turf management. Wet ground is not good for playing golf or managing grass. Sometimes getting the water just a little bit farther away can make all the difference.

 

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

When you splash bunker sand onto the green after your shot, please brush away any large piles or clumps that may have ended up on the green.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Slow progress on storm cleanup

As summer approaches, we are at our busiest time of year. Every species of grass is growing at or near its full potential and must be cut regularly. All our regular, secondary tasks must be completed as well. This is why certain jobs, like cleaning up from the most recent storms, can take us longer to accomplish. We expect to finish the last of the cleanup and repair work this week.

The most recent storm was just over two weeks ago now, and we still haven’t finished the cleaning yet. A full tree remains down on #18, logs are still left on the driving range, and a few stump holes haven’t been repaired fully. There a couple reason behind why some of this is not accomplished yet. First, and most important, in certain circumstances, we don’t have the proper tools to manage larger tree cleanup like what has occurred in the recent storms. Large chainsaws, chippers, log trucks, etc. are not part of our fleet. We could cobble together the necessary machines if we had to, but it would take time and money. Contracting with a tree removal company is most efficient, even if it means that the debris lays longer than we would like.

Secondly, the time it would take for our staff to accomplish these tasks would be too great and would be at the expense of other jobs. Nearly all our labor would be consumed with just tree removal work and most other things on the course would not be done. Whereas the tree company labor is dedicated to the cleanup process. Mowing, changing cups, raking bunkers, among other things would be skipped. This would lead to a very poor experience for several days. At this time of year, using most of our staff on one single job would leave too much else unfinished.

Even jobs that are manageable for the Grounds staff can take longer for us to get to, and finish, because of the same time constraints. Often, these cleanup tasks are after all the typical course preparation for the day is complete. The average time for morning setup and mowing jobs is 4 hours. Even then, not the entire staff is ready or available to help after that, so things can take longer. Last week, we were able to get several old stump holes sodded and we will finish up the rest of those this week.

When you see a tree or logs left on the ground for extra time after a storm, it is not because we don’t know or don’t care. It might not make sense for us to do the work with our tools, or because our time is spent on other work. We appreciate your patience as we continue to get things back to normal.

 

 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

When you splash bunker sand onto the green after your shot, please brush away any large piles or clumps that may have ended up on the green.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Golf Cart tips

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org