Winter projects

Now that we are fully entrenched in the off-season, it is time for the Grounds Department to catch up on several tasks that cannot be completed during the busy golf season. Preventative maintenance on equipment, repainting tee markers and course signs, and bunker rake repair are just a few things that will get done through the winter. Winter is also time for projects that are too difficult to accomplish amongst play.

The maintenance of our equipment fleet is non-stop. When we are using a piece of machinery 4-6 times per week, it can be difficult to accomplish anything other than emergency repairs and basic maintenance. However, in the winter when a mower may not be used for a month or more, in depth work can be done. For example, hydraulic hoses are inspected and replaced if necessary. Bearings, bushings, and other moving parts are replaced. Belts are checked for wear and tension. Also, any issues that may have arisen during the season that were not completely addressed are addressed at this time. Basically, the most important and most often used machines are looked over from top to bottom.

Also at this time of year, every tee marker on the course is systematically brought to the maintenance shop for refurbishing. The markers are sanded, repainted, and sealed to prevent water damage. Also, if needed, the stake at the base of the marker that holds the tee marker in the ground is replaced. By doing this each winter, we can extend the life of the markers.

Similarly, each bunker rake is brought to the shop. Any broken handles or rake heads are discarded and replaced. Any grips that are worn, faded, or damaged are also replaced. An inventory is taken, and any replacement parts that are needed can be ordered. Again, this allows us to start fresh in the spring and to be sure we are putting quality tools on the course and are not caught short of supplies when the season starts.

The decrease in golfers over the winter also allows us to complete some projects with little or no interference. For example, we have already started trimming the trees on the golf course. This will be an ongoing process by which we will trim low or dead branches off every tree on the course. Removing these branches improves the safety for golfers underneath the trees, provides better air and light for the turf, and gives the tree a clean look. This is a multi-winter process though, due to the amount of trees on the property. Another project that we will be undertaking this winter is the re-sodding of bunker lips around the bunkers on holes 4-9. Many of you may have noticed the lip that has formed on these bunkers from sand and soil erosion and accumulation, as well as repeated foot traffic. We will strip the existing sod from the bunker edge, strip away any excess sand, then re-grass the edge with new sod. Because this project requires extensive time in bunker, especially near greens, working around and near many golfers would slow the process extremely. Saving a project like this for the winter disrupts the least amount of play and is the most efficient use of our time.

So while it may be the off-season, it certainly is not down time. We keep very busy making sure that when the season starts again, there are at least a few things about which we don’t have to worry.

Just a reminder: this will be the only post for December. January and February will each only have one post as well. Weekly posts will resume in March.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Irrigation blowout

Happy Thanksgiving!

As the holidays near, they signal the time for the Grounds department to begin preparing for winter. As mentioned last week, we have a list of tasks to be completed before the cold sets in to stay. The biggest component of winterization is blowing out the irrigation system. Protecting the components with which we water the turf grass is of utmost importance. From the sprinklers scattered around the course to the pumps in the pump station near #17 tee, each piece needs to be as free of water as possible.

Blowing out the irrigation system is just as it sounds: we connect an air compressor to the system and pump air through the pipes instead of water. We close the valve that allows water from the pond on #17 to enter the pipes, then systematically begin turning on every sprinkler head on the course. The air forced into the pipes takes the place of the water and blows it out of the sprinklers.  Once a particular sprinkler is no longer spraying water, we turn it off and move to the next one. While this may sound painstakingly slow, the process actually moves quickly. By manipulating what valves are open or closed we can control where excess water is allowed to travel and thus more directly force the water out where we want it to go. Also, prior to turning the air compressor on, allowing water in the pipes to drain out through gravity reduces the amount of water that we actually have to force out with air.

There is no set date by which we always empty the irrigation system. Thanksgiving provides a general time-frame, but the decision, like most other decisions we make, is weather dependent. However, the weather simply getting cold for a few nights does not necessarily mean the irrigation system is at risk. For example, this year we have had some near-record lows in the two weeks leading up to thanksgiving yet, we have not blown the irrigation system out. Although the air temperature is well below freezing, and the upper half to one inch of ground may freeze, this freeze is nowhere near the irrigation pipes in the ground. The cold has to establish itself for an extended period of time and begin to freeze the ground down deeper before we are concerned that it may damage the irrigation system. Just like many other jobs, we have to wait for the right time.

Blowing the system out too early or too late can both lead to problems. If the irrigation system is off and the weather turns relatively warm and dry, we can be left scrambling trying to get water on turf grass. Filling up a tank at the shop and driving it out on the course would be one way to get water out when the system is no longer active. This is very slow and inefficient. So turning the water off too early can lead to issues. Similarly, waiting too long to blow out the system can lead to many problems as well. If the system is not drained before the long extended cold arrives, broken pipes, sprinklers and other components is very likely. This is very costly and would require valuable labor in the spring to fix.

Because the irrigation system is large and extremely valuable, taking precautions for winter is a must. Putting it to bed properly ensures that when spring arrives, we are ready to water without any delay.

As a side note, starting December 1^st, the weekly blog will be reduced to monthly for December, January, and February. While work never stops for the Grounds Department, weekly changes and new topics are fewer.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Miscellaneous winterization

Winter seems to be just around the corner now. Temperatures are staying low and overnights are getting cold. As the cold weather flexes its muscle, we do a few things to protect some on-course items from freezing. The biggest step we take is to blow out the irrigation system which will be discussed in greater detail next week.

A few other winterizing tasks are performed in addition to the irrigation system being drained. The water in the ball washers is drained and the ball washer is brought in to the maintenance facility for yearly maintenance and touch-up painting. During the summer, through normal wear, the inner workings of the ball washers can be broken or the paint scratched and chipped. By bringing the ball washer to the shop and repairing the broken pieces, it saves us from having to buy an entire new ball washer. Similarly, by repainting the ball washer, we can extend its life and keep it looking sharp. When we are finished, the ball washer will look and perform like new for the next season.

We also bring in the water coolers that are on the course. Some minor maintenance will be performed, and the jugs will be cleaned and stored. Also, any water cooler that cannot be repaired or is too old will be replaced for the next year.

We also have a device in the pond between #1 and #10 greens, called Sonic Solutions, which uses ultrasonic waves to keeps algae from growing in the water during the summer. You may have noticed the solar panel and equipment near the bank. Algae growth is slowed in the winter months and we do not want any damage to occur to the device from freezing and thawing. So this device is unplugged from the solar adapter and stored in the maintenance shop for the winter.

The fountain in the pond on #9 is an integral part of the golf course at Bretton Woods, and it is also an important aspect to the atmosphere of the clubhouse patio and lawns. In order to protect the fountain through the winter we will also bring it to the maintenance shop where it can be safely stored. The fountain will be cleaned and inspected to be sure no maintenance is needed.

Similarly, there is a pump in the stream at the miniature golf course. That device will also be pulled from the pond brought to the shop; it will be inspected and cleaned, and then stored for the winter.

Finally, we will prepare a propane heater to be placed in the bathroom near #14 tee. While the bathroom is solar powered and heated, when the temperatures drop very low, an additional heater is needed to protect the pipes from freezing.

These are all minor, yet essential tasks. Taking the time to protect these items from the cold saves time and money in the spring.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Carts on dormant Bermuda grass

Helping Bermuda grass enter winter as healthy and strong as possible is one of the key tactics for preventing spring dead spot. The last couple of months we have been trying several combined strategies to increase the hardiness of the turf in the fairways and new tees. Already this fall we have applied the organic compost, Orgro, to the fairways to aid in spring dead spot control, we have applied fungicides, and we have made an application of potassium to the fairways. The final step that we will take is to restrict cart traffic from the Bermuda grass for the remainder of the winter.

Carts are a very stressful thing to turf grass. Whether it is cool season rough or the warm season fairways, the constant traffic causes damage. In the summer, heat stressed rough grass that is driven on can die or turn brown for some time before slowly recovering. In addition, turf that is too wet or has standing water on it can be severely damaged when driven on.  Most of the time, the turf grass plant is able to withstand the wear and recover nicely.

Bermuda grass that is entering dormancy or is already dormant does not have the same ability to recover. While the plant may be able to withstand the damage early in dormancy, the growth rate is so slow that recovery may be until the following spring. Similar to the rough, when the Bermuda grass is too wet, driving a golf cart across the turf can cause damage. The most severe damage can occur, however, when the ground and plant are frozen.

Dormant Bermuda grass turf is not growing but it is still alive at the crown and underground rhizomes of the plant. When the dormant, frozen part of the plant is crushed under the weight of a cart, the cells within that portion burst. This in itself does not actually kill any living tissue, but the effects are seen in the spring when the Bermuda is trying to come back out of dormancy. Rather than being able to regrow from the leaf tissue, the plant must regrow from the crown or from the below ground rhizomes. This can significantly set the recovery back. It takes far longer for the turf to regrow from this point than it would from other tissue. This damage can occur when the ground is dry or waterlogged.

Since control of spring dead spot can be very sporadic and difficult to predict, we also try to limit any other factors that may contribute to slow spring green-up. Removing carts from the fairways is one of the easiest of these factors to accomplish.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Leaf cleanup

Fall colors are terrific. The oranges, reds, and yellows make it a great time to be out on the course. In order for the falling leaves to not impact play, the Grounds department staff works diligently to keep the course clean. This is a very time and labor intensive few weeks.

First, the leaves are blown off of playing surfaces: greens, tees, fairways, and bunkers. The blowers are the initial step in the cleanup process. We have to move the leaves to more accessible areas daily. We use a combination of equipment. We have backpack blowers to clear the greens and bunkers because bigger equipment cannot be used. Leaves on tees and fairways are blown with tow behind blowers or a tractor mounted blower. These machines are very efficient and powerful, and are capable of clearing an entire fairway in about ten minutes. Wherever possible, the leaves are blown to a location where they will not have to be dealt with again. For example, the native grass areas or the trees to right of #15 are areas where leaves can be left. However, not all of the leaves can be moved to these areas.

Anywhere in the open where leaves must be removed, piles or windrows of leaves can be seen.  With the blowers, the leaves are moved into the rough on either side of a fairway or tee or in to an out of the way area. Once collected, there are two main strategies for dealing with the piles. First, we have a giant vacuum that is pulled behind a tractor and sucks the leaves up. This machine works just as it sounds: the vacuum opening is driven directly over the pile and pulls the leaves up. Wet, heavy leaves or very deep piles are much harder to vacuum, but nevertheless, this machine does a very good job. The second way that we handle the piles is by mulching them with a rough mower. By mowing over a pile several times, the cutting action of the blades chops up the leaves into tiny pieces. These tiny pieces fall into the turf canopy and are no longer able to move about the course.

Making matters more complicated are the windy fall days. Not only are we trying to clear the play areas of leaves that have already fallen, but more are continuing to fall. Then the wind shifts and everything that was blown away turns around and blows right back at you. It can seem as though we are not making any progress at all. However, each leaf must be cleared from the course, so although some leaves may avoid collection one day, this time of year we will be cleaning leaves at some point every day.

While it may seem that fall colors and the falling of leaves is short-lived, on the golf course dealing with the mess seems just the opposite. The leaves can seem infinite. But with the right tools and persistence we manage to eventually win each fall against the onslaught of debris.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Bunker rake placement

A common dilemma facing golfers out on the course: where should you leave the rake after you finish raking a bunker? There is no rule stating where the rake must be placed, and the USGA only has a recommendation. With this being the case, each club is allowed to decide for themselves how and where the rakes should be placed. Input from golfers as well as the Grounds staff helps to determine the location of the rakes. At Bretton Woods, the Grounds Department prefers the rakes to be left inside of the bunker, at the low side.

Several reasons account for the Grounds Department’s preference for the rakes to be in the bunkers. First, maintenance of the bunker face grass is easier without a rake in the way. As mowers cut around the bunker, if they had to stop and move every rake, a good deal of time would be added to the task. Secondly, the possibility of damage to a rake that was mistakenly mowed over or simply driven over by a cart cutting too close to a bunker is diminished if the rakes are in the bunkers.

We also feel that the rake being inside the bunkers is a better placement for the golfers as well. When a ball hits a rake that is outside of a bunker there are two possible results: it may either stay out of the bunker or go into the bunker. No one minds if the ball stays out of the bunker but everyone cares if it goes into the bunker. In contrast, if a ball strikes a rake that is in the bunker it again has two possible results: it can pop out of the bunker or stay in. In this case though, the original shot was already going to end up in the bunker. Therefore, the result in which the ball is knocked out of the bunker is a positive and the ball hitting the rake and remaining in the bunker is really only a neutral result since the ball was going in the bunker regardless. Weighing the possible results of a shot striking the rake helps us to determine where the rakes should be for normal play.

Now that the thinking behind placing the rake inside the bunker has been laid out, what about where, within the bunker, should the rake be placed? We prefer the rake to be left at the low side of the bunker. Most of our bunkers have a steep face or slope on 2 or 3 edges and a much lower, gentler slope on the other side. Again, there is an agronomic and golfer related aspect to this reasoning. Agronomically, when golfers try and climb the steepest slope they invariably struggle to get footing and the sod beneath their feet breaks free and slides back in towards the sand. Not only does this cause the bunker to begin to look and play poorly, it also adds maintenance. We must strip the sloughed off sod and replace it with fresh sod to re-establish the edge. Climbing out of the steep slope is also unsafe. Sod giving way under foot can lead to strained muscles or sprains, or worse, falling all the way back in to the bunker. If golfers spend the small amount of extra time to walk in to their ball from the low side- even if their shot is against the far lip- it is safer and can save some maintenance headaches.

While no placement is 100% fool-proof, there was thought given to the choice of leaving the rake inside the bunker. Although some negative outcomes may still happen from a shot striking a rake in this position, in the end there may be a few positive results as well.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Fall frost

Lucky for everyone involved, we get to deal with frost twice per year: spring and fall. Dealing with the frost and the subsequent delay differs slightly between spring and fall.

Spring frost occurs as everything is coming out of winter. The ground is very cold and the turf has spent months adjusting and hardening off to the cold weather. The turf’s ability to withstand frost damage is as high as it will get. Though it is still vulnerable, the natural defense of the grass has been built up through enduring the cold winter. None of this is true in regards to frosts that occur in the fall.

In the fall, the ground is not cold, which helps to make the first few frosts not as severe. But it also means that the turf is not yet ready to deal with the low temperatures. Because the grass is still adjusting to the cold, it is at its most vulnerable for damage. Luckily, because these initial frosts are not heavy, damage is usually minimal. Also, because the daytime temperatures and soil temperatures are still relatively high, the grass is usually able to grow out of any damage that may occur. Nevertheless, the early fall frosts are still a time to be very cautious and allow the turf to adjust to the cold.

The most crucial fall frost is the first heavy frost. This is the frost that makes everything look white when you look out on the course. We must be very careful with this frost because there is a high risk of damage. The plant’s defenses are just kicking into gear and the growth has slowed so recovery would be minimal.

The Grounds department has some strategies to deal with and help shorten the frost delay. But there is one strategy in particular that is not always available in the spring that is available in the fall. As mentioned, the soil temperature in the fall is still high. The soil is insulated and it takes much longer for the soil temperatures to change compared to air temperature. So although the air temperature may drop below freezing early in the fall, chances are, the soil temperature is nowhere near that cold. This has two implications. First, because the ground is not freezing, it means that we have not shut down the irrigation system yet. The ground has not become cold enough to freeze the water in the pipes so there is no worry of burst pipes. So we have the irrigation system at our disposal. Having irrigation water available means that we can “water the frost off” the turf. Basic chemical properties of water state that above 32 degrees Fahrenheit water is a liquid and not frozen. The frost on the turf grass plant is below 32 degrees. So the irrigation water is warmer than the frost on the plant and irrigating the frost will melt it or at least turn it to a slushy-icy mix. Seeing the slush on the plant versus frost, means that the plant is no longer cold enough to cause water molecules to freeze on the surface and create frost. Now the cells inside the plant are thawed too so the frost damage potential is nearly eliminated.

This does not mean that we simply turn on all the sprinklers on the course and declare the frost delay over. Timing of watering the frost off is still crucial. If the irrigation is used too early, when the air temperature is still too cold, the plant will thaw momentarily only to re-freeze. This is often the case in shaded areas. The coldest part of the morning is just at sunrise. The surface of the earth has been losing heat all night and morning, all the way until the sun starts to rise and begin heating the earth again. Once the sun starts warming the turf, frost can be eliminated quickly with only a quick watering. However, in the shade, where the sun has not had a significant affect yet, turning the irrigation will not provide the same response.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Chipping green

The chipping green is a very important aspect of the golf facilities at Bretton Woods. Because it is widely used and vital to many golfers’ practice routines, the green should play as similar to the course greens as possible. This green also serves as patches on other greens. Recently some sod was used for work on number 17 green. Our maintenance routines regularly include the chipping green and it receives all the inputs that the other greens get, but it needs a little more work. To repair this open wound and also to continue to make this green more closely resemble the other greens, we did an extra aeration to the chipping green on Wednesday 10/1.

The chipping green has built up more thatch than the other 18 greens. Thatch is the dead and decomposing plant material that is just below the living tissue and above the soil. Managing this layer is vital to healthy greens. Controlling the amount of thatch is also key to managing the playability of the green. High thatch content can lead to greens staying too wet, which can lead to disease. When mowing a green with too much thatch it is far easier to scalp the turf, causing injury and again leading to problems. Playing on a green with too much thatch is no fun either. The green is very soft and spongy. It is also bumpy which affects putting. So when a green with too much thatch receives a shot it does not take a hard, firm bounce and roll out. Instead it makes more a “plop” sound and stays very near its pitch mark. Due to the higher thatch content in the chipping green, when practicing on this green, shots hit in do not react as they would on the course. It is difficult to truly practice one’s short game when the facility does not play like the course.

To alleviate the thatch problem, we are performing an extra aeration on the chipping green. Aerating removes organic material, or thatch, thus lowering the overall percentage contained in the green. The extra aeration will be minimally invasive and only slightly impact the playability of the green. Taking this step now will make the green better overall in the long run.

Recently, as part of the master plan work, a patch of poorly performing turf on number 17 green was sodded. The sod came from the chipping green. Many of you may have noticed the missing turf visible on the chipping green. One of the easiest and fastest ways to repair an area like this is through the use of cores. We are able to work on two problems at once by aerating the chipping green now. Not only will we be removing organic material from the green, but we can use some of the cores to fill in where the sod was removed. This will replace the sod with turf that matches exactly the current turf of the green. This area will progress similar to area we extended on number 15 green.

Although the chipping green is important, we feel that we can execute this extra cultural practice and only disrupt the golf experience slightly. Plus, the long term benefit for the green’s health and the golfer’s game will be improved.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

More on Orgro

Recently, we added a question and answer aspect to the blog. Feel free to contact us with any comments or questions about the grounds at Bretton Woods. We try to answer questions as quickly and clearly as possible. Certain answers may be used as full blog posts if we can answer the question for many people who may be curious about the same topic.

Question submitted by Wally Fullerton on 10/4/14:

I was curious so looked up the source of Orgro.  It apparently is made from biosolids left from water treatment at a Baltimore City sewage plant.  I have no problem with that - I've used the product once marketed (but, I think, no longer available) by the WSSC treatment plant.  But what are the benefits of using Orgro over other products such as Leafgro - a local composted product without the sewage component?  And are there any benefits of using the rather coarse version that you are using - it is rather strange to see large shards of wood on the fairways.

You imply that Bermuda can benefit, and avoid serious Spring Dead Spot, with potassium additives.  You also imply that Orgro benefits Bermuda.  But I just looked at the Orgro website and found that its analysis includes zero potassium (see below).  How do you reconcile the analysis with Bermuda's need for Potassium.

Analysis:

ORGRO® HIGH ORGANIC COMPOST

Guaranteed Analysis

1-1-0

   Total Nitrogen               

1%

< .25% Water Soluble Nitrogen

> .75% Water Insoluble Nitrogen

   Phosphate (P2O5)        1%

   Potash (K2O)

                0%

First, thank you for the questions. A better understanding of all that we are doing at Bretton Woods is a benefit to everyone so I am happy to clarify any of our practices.

I realize that the compost material that we are using has been a big discussion point lately. It is new and somewhat unorthodox. However, we are continually trying to improve and we are hoping to make major strides in the fight against spring dead spot with Orgro.

Using compost on Bermuda grass fairways to help with spring dead spot has been a practice in North Carolina for a couple of years now. Few, if any, major research projects have been done specifically looking at how the compost material aids in defense of spring dead spot. However, courses that have been using compost have visually seen a significant decrease in disease incidence.

Based on this, we decided to try a compost material here. Anything that we can do to improve the chances of the fairways to resist or recover from the disease is a benefit.

Orgro was not the original product that we looked at to use this fall. The company that shipped the product most often used in North Carolina was not registered to ship into Maryland so we had to find another material. We tried to find a material that closely resembled the product we initially were interested in. Orgro fit the criteria best.

We looked at a sample of the Orgro, but in the large quantities that we ordered it turned out to be slightly coarser than we anticipated. We have already located a possible alternative compost for next year should we deem this year’s trial a success. I agree that the larger pieces are a little odd to see in the fairways. However, we do want to err on the side of a little too coarse versus too fine.

If we use too fine of a material, it may decompose in the fall right after we apply it and be unavailable in the spring. You may have noticed that in the few days after we applied the compost to the fairways they turned a very nice dark green color. This is in response to the finer material that is present in the Orgro breaking down quickly and releasing nutrients to the plant. If the entire material was composed of particles this fine then the initial flush of growth may use up all the nutrients and leave nothing for spring. Leafgro could be a viable option, but with this initial trial we tried to match the material being used in North Carolina. We would also be hesitant of getting a material that is too fine because it may be too fine to spread.

We also are not using the Orgro for its inherent nutrient analysis. The potassium we are relying on to improve the winter hardiness of the Bermuda grass is not derived from the Orgro. We will be applying potassium separately.  Instead, we are expecting that when temperatures rise in the spring, the microbes in the soil will break down the Orgro and release nutrients to the Bermuda grass and aid it in greening up and recovering from any possible winter injury. Although the minor amounts of nutrients present do benefit the Bermuda most nutrients will come more from microbial decomposition of the larger pieces of compost. So, rather than applying the compost as a “fertilizer” we are using it more as food for the soil microbes in the spring.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Spring dead spot

Slowly but surely the cool weather has returned. While it has been great for playing golf and for the cool season turf grass, it has been difficult for the Bermuda grass. As these changes in temperatures take place it marks the time to be taking precautions against spring dead spot. In past blogs we have discussed several things we will be incorporating into our defense but we still have a few tactics left.

Starting again this week we will be making the second half application of the Orgro compost material in the fairways. Time will not be spent in this installment covering the details of the Orgro again. For more information, the past blog on the topic can be referenced.

We also monitor the nutrient needs of the Bermuda grass plant throughout the year. One of the most important nutrients for all turf grass including Bermuda is potassium. Potassium provides many benefits to the plant, but especially important for Bermuda grass and spring dead spot prevention is that it increases winter hardiness. Many times the spring dead spot fungus weakens the plant but does not kill the Bermuda entirely. Instead the cold weather kills the Bermuda grass. So by monitoring the potassium heading into fall, we can make applications of potassium to the Bermuda grass and give the turf the boost it needs to weather the winter. We will be making our potassium application in the next couple of weeks as we fit it into the schedule.

We add nutrients to the soil, but allowing the plant to more efficiently use the nutrients that are already available to it is another way to improve health of the Bermuda grass. To do this, we begin to raise the mowing height of all of the Bermuda grass surfaces. By increasing the mowing height, we decrease the amount of tissue that is removed and increase the plant’s ability to prepare for the winter. Mowing turfgrass is stressful to the plant, even though we do this practice regularly. Taller Bermuda grass is mowed less frequently thus causing stress to the turf less often. A less stressed plant can more easily take existing nutrients in from the soil. Leaving more tissue on the plant also affords the plant more surface area to collect sunlight and produce and store energy to survive the winter. This stored energy gives the plant the food it needs to survive the winter but also is in storage for the spring when temperatures begin to climb and gives the Bermuda some energy to start to green up.

Although most of the factors regarding spring dead spot are not well understood, there are a few things that have shown promise in prevention of the disease. By doing everything we can to send the Bermuda grass into winter as healthy as possible, we are giving the plant every opportunity to be able to withstand the spring dead spot fungus and winter damage.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Regular maintenance of Master Plan holes

Construction is complete.  All the sod has been laid and crews have all but left Bretton Woods. Now the hardest part of all starts: taking the improvements and integrating them into our maintenance routines.

Nearly everyone has seen and played the holes that were reconstructed this year. Almost all reviews have been positive. The overwhelming feeling from the Grounds department is just the same. While the changes were made to improve many aspects that were lacking from the old course and to make maintenance easier, this does not eliminate the challenge of taking something completely new and deciding how it should be best maintained. New lines to denote where fairways end and approaches start must be marked; step-cut lines must be set; the line between what we can and cannot mow on the bunker face grass must be established. All of this takes time and patience. There will be some times where it may look as though we have forgotten to mow an area completely, or where a certain area appears to have been mowed shorter than it needed to be. This is all part of getting new turf and new holes to fit into Bretton Woods' style of maintenance. For example, new sod on the tees is walk-mowed initially to help smooth the turf but also to discourage the forming of ruts from the tires of a heavier machine. We will not walk-mow forever but lighter machines help the young turf get established. As the sand base of the tees has time to settle and naturally compact it will be able to handle the weight of a bigger machine. We also push mow much of the new rough sod prior to using a heavier machine. Again, this prevents damage done by being too aggressive too early.

As mentioned, we also have new mowing pattern lines to figure out. For example, the forward tees on #3, 4, 15, and 17 each meld directly into the fairway. Marking where each mower hands off duty to the next machine must be painted and our staff must add this into their routine. Our plan is for the fairway to come nearly all the way to the teeing surface. From there the smaller tee mower will take over. There will not be a step-cut line between the forward tees and fairway on these holes. All of the Bermuda sod came to us mowed at the same height from the sod farm. Therefore, anywhere that we will establish the step-cut, we must only let the turf grow. At first this will look as though it has been forgotten. Some areas will grow at different rates than others. It may look uneven for a time. Once the Bermuda grows enough to be cut in all places, though, it will give a distinct line between the fairway and step-cut.

The same is true for the bunker faces. We will initially mow all of the new sod to the same shorter height in order to help it root. As it grows we will begin to define the taller, shadowy, face versus the lower cut rough grass. Again, there may be times where the area that we are letting mature to be the taller face will look inconsistent and unkempt. However, once the majority of the rough reaches a certain height we are able to then make a clean cut and begin our regular routine as we do on previously reconstructed holes #’s 5-9.

All of this takes some time and the skill of our staff in adjusting to several different holes being in several different phases of maintenance. Now that all areas of this year’s Master Plan work are open and playable, adding these wrinkles into the maintenance routine is the next challenge.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Tree maintenance

As we head in to fall and then in to winter, maintenance of the turf grass slows, but maintenance overall does not. In a future installment, we will cover the extensive work done to maintain tee markers, signs, trash cans, and more items in the offseason. Fall and winter also provide time for maintenance of trees on the course. Pruning trees is an almost universally beneficial tactic to maintaining the balance between the trees and the turf grass. In the coming weeks you see will our staff out working on pruning all the trees on the course.

Trimming the trees and raising the canopy is most important. Lifting these branches will provide more air and light to the turf grass below. Increased light and air movement will improve the turf health underneath the trees. Turf that is deprived of quality light is very thin and wispy versus thick lush turf that receives adequate light. The turf cannot compete with the tree or with weeds and the result is ground that is either bare or weed infested. Similarly, when the tree is limiting the air movement below, the turf grass can suffocate. The turf is again very thin or non-existent which allows weeds to encroach.

Weeds beneath all of the trees are not aesthetically pleasing. Thin turf, weeds, or bare dirt is also not good for playability. Having a ball come to lie under tree is enough of a penalty, but then having to play it from a part-weed, part-dirt surface is then a double penalty. By trimming branches we can increase the chances of the turf grass to thrive. With quality turf under the tree, a bad shot is not compounded by having to play from a questionable lie.

We have many trees near our cart paths as well. Limbs that hang too low or stick out into the path are a safety concern. Cart drivers who are not paying attention may inadvertently drive their cart into a branch and injure themselves, their passenger, or damage the cart. Also, as trees age, branches can die for a variety of reasons. Regardless of the reason for decline, these branches pose a threat of breaking off and falling. While this is a concern for any dead or dying branch anywhere on the course, the branches that overhang cart paths pose a greater threat to the golfers because of the higher amount of traffic. So, making sure the clearance for carts is sufficient as well as safe is another purpose of tree maintenance.

Lastly, the health and structure of a mature tree can be improved and maintained through pruning. Removing dead or dying branches, or cleaning the tree, improves the aesthetics and structure of a tree. This is also a technique in improving the safety of the tree. Thinning a tree is the selective removal of branches throughout the tree canopy. This has several key benefits. Air and light better penetrate to the crown of the tree and help to improve its health. Excess weight can be removed from limbs and help to prevent breaking. Thinning also aids the tree in keeping its natural shape and structure. Raising the tree branches is another technique we will employ. This has a more indirect benefit to the tree. Keeping the tree branches up and away from carts and machines keeps the tree from being hit and branches broken and damaged.

While we are not currently equipped to climb and maintain the uppermost limbs on very large trees, we will be out doing what we can to maintain the balance between the turf and trees. By doing a little each year, the quality and appearance of the trees, surrounding turf, and experience for the golfers can all be addressed.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Orgro

Spring dead spot is the only true affliction to Bermuda grass. It is a fungus that attacks the roots, stolons, and rhizomes of the plant. The infection occurs in the fall and winter. The fungus does not directly kill the plant but weakens it enough to allow winter to cause sufficient injury that the plant dies. Damage is seen in the spring when healthy Bermuda grass starts to break dormancy and infected sites do not.  There are far more questions than answers in regards to control, severity, and practices for prevention of this disease.

Recently, the use of organic compost in the fall has shown positive results. Several courses in North Carolina have been using these materials for a couple of years and have seen improved control of spring dead spot. There is only trial evidence thus far, but it is a relatively inexpensive and easy program to start. So in order to try and alleviate the spring dead spot problem we have, this fall we are adding this compost material, called Orgro, into our preventative maintenance routine.

This past week you may have seen us out spreading the compost or seen it in the fairways. The material will help relieve soil compaction which is one of the key strategies in fighting spring dead spot. Like most turf grass fungi, the pathogen attacks weakened and stress plants first. Compacted soil does not drain well and therefore the Bermuda grass is saturated and can’t breathe. The plants in this situation are susceptible to infection with the spring dead spot fungus. Also, the compost works as a fertilizer. Soil microbes break down organic material in the soil which releases nutrients that are then available to the plant. Soil microbes are active when soil temperatures get warmer, as it does in the summer. So, this material will be present in the soil as temperatures climb next spring and into summer, thus releasing nutrients to the fairways just as they are breaking dormancy and need food the most.

To work around a busy fall golf schedule we are splitting the recommended rate of application in half and will be applying the material twice. Our hope is that putting less material out will allow the fairways to grow over the compost quickly so as to impact playability as little as possible. However, we will not spread the two applications too far apart. One application is being applied at the start of the month and the other will be right near the end of the month. The timing of the application is important too because if applied too early, the material will begin to break down now and the Bermuda grass will take up nutrients. This would cause the Bermuda to grow too much as it heads in to fall which does not allow it to prepare for winter dormancy. This is another stress on the plant that can open the door for spring dead spot infection. If applied too late, the compost will sit on top of fairways that are not growing and the material will take far too long to be integrated into the soil. This would greatly affect the playability of the fairways. Also, the material would then not be in the soil through the winter, providing what defense it can, when the spring dead spot fungus is infecting the Bermuda grass.

Although, there is no way of completely preventing spring dead spot, we hope that by adding this new wrinkle to our management practices, we can see an improvement in the control of the disease.

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Labor Day

Happy Labor Day. This holiday can sometimes signify the end of summer and the beginning of fall or it may just be a bump in the road as summer rolls along. Whichever it is, a few things do change for sure when the calendar turns to September (including the start of another football season!).

One change noticed by everyone is that day-lengths begin to shorten dramatically as we move into September. Sunrises move later and sunsets move earlier. With this change at both ends of the day we typically lose 1 to 2 minutes of daylight per day. For most, this is an unwelcome change because outdoor activities that used to stretch well into the evening are now squeezed into shorter days. For turf grass though, it is significant because the daytime is when the turf grass is subjected to stress. The sun gets a later start in drying the grass out and finishes earlier in the evening. This translates to the window of stress on the turf being smaller. Less stressed time means that we can push the turf harder and can expect better tolerance and recovery.

Another change that occurs is that the angle of the sun begins to change. With each passing day the sun gets lower in the sky and thus the intensity of suns’ rays decreases. In the middle of summer, when the sun is directly overhead and beating down most intensely, the turf is under the most stress. Each passing day thereafter, the sun begins to shine on the turf at ever decreasing angles. The smaller angle diffuses the heat intensity that the rays can impart on the turf and the grass is much more capable of managing the warmth.

Finally, the overall average daytime and overnight temperatures begin to drop significantly in September as well. Many sources are available to check average temperatures but generally for August the average daytime high temperature is 85-87 degrees Fahrenheit. However, for September, the average drops to around 81-83 degrees Fahrenheit. Similarly, the overnight lows drop from 65-67 degrees down to 61-63 degrees. These both are significant changes. The daytime highs are somewhat clearer as to the importance of lower temperatures. Lower temperatures cause less direct heat stress and the turf grass is far more tolerant. Somewhat less well-known, is the importance of lower overnight temperatures. When the overnight temperatures drop below 70 degrees the level of disease pressure drops drastically. Also, as the overnights continue to drop down into the low 60’s, the turf grass can “catch its breath” overnight. The grass can recuperate from most stresses of the day more efficiently and effectively. Recovery overnight means that the grass is not still under stress from the previous day as it heads into the next day.

So as we all head in a little earlier because the summer-time sun is going down sooner, the turf is breathing a small sigh of relief as it recovers for tomorrow.
 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Project update: Aeration, new tee sod, #15 green expansion

Summer is winding down and the fall golf season is just around the corner. It is a good time to update some projects that have been mentioned in past blogs.

Greens aeration went very well. We did have some issues with rain and that cost us almost an entire day. The grounds staff worked extremely hard though and we nearly got back on schedule, making up over half of the time lost. By gaining this time back we were able to ensure that everything healed at relatively the same time, rather than having half the greens healing two or even three days later than the other half. We are just hitting the two week mark since the greens were aerated and it is nearly impossible to tell anything was done. After aerification is over it is easy to think that summer is over and the turf can take a deep breath and our staff can relax. However, letting up now would be a mistake because making it through August is still a challenge that must not be taken lightly. Following aerification and up until now, we have been keeping the greens a little slower and “healthier” to promote healing and to survive August. As September hits, overnight temperatures drop and sun angles change, the greens can be managed more aggressively with less fear of irreparable damage. Because of this, greens speeds will increase into the month of September and the fall golf season.

The rain was a factor in the aeration of the fairways as well. Again, in order to complete the task on schedule we decided to use solid tines instead of hollow tines. Solid tines make a hole but do not remove any material. It was the only option once the rains came. Using hollow tines was not practical based on the weather during our scheduled aeration window. Postponing would have meant two separate weeks of golf interrupted by aeration, which we were reluctant to do. So, by using the solid tines we stayed within our allotted timeframe and still were able to provide some benefit to the turf grass.

The new Bermuda grass sod that we laid on the back and forward tees on holes 5-9 has taken nicely and those tees have been open for over two weeks now. The plan is to continue the renovation of the remaining tees on those holes next year. Again, this process of re-grassing the tees is beneficial for both our staff and the playability of the course. Bermuda grass requires far fewer inputs than the ryegrass tees, which means less money to maintain. Also, having only one species of grass on all the tees will make maintenance much simpler. Finally, when the summer time heat strikes, the Bermuda grass will thrive and playability will not suffer as can be the case with the ryegrass tees.

In addition, the small expansion of #15 green is progressing nicely. The plugs have all taken root and have begun to grow. The area has been fertilized twice, top-dressed twice, rolled several times, and mowed once. This process of fertilizing, topdressing and mowing will continue for some time before the new section completely matches the current green. However, the key to this process happening quickly is to “train” the grass to grow short. By mowing the grass early on, it never has a chance to grow tall and immediately it adapts to being mowed at a low height. Luckily, because these plugs were taken directly from #15 green, the grass was already accustomed to being cut short. So not allowing it to “forget” that it was cut short will make the transition as smooth as possible.

 

 See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

#15 green expansion

There are a lot of changes happening on the golf course right now. Many of those changes have occurred on the 15^th hole. While most of the work has been handled by an outside contractor, one small change was done by our staff. As you play in the next few weeks you will notice that we have slightly expanded the 15^th green.

Rather than sod or seed this new section of green, we decided to use aerification plugs. There are several benefits to using plugs versus seeding or sodding. First, we would not be able to use seed that would match the current turf on the 15^th green. We would have to seed with bent grass, and although bent grass is a good greens’ turf grass and there is some currently in the greens, it would not blend well with the existing green and would look and play different for a long time. Sodding would have been the fastest way to add putting surface area. However, similar to seeding, we would not have been able to match the existing green. It is also very hard to avoid creating layers of different soil types when sodding, especially on a green. These layers can lead to many long term problems that were not worth the risk.

This was not a decision based solely on the fact that the other options were not the best. Using plugs actually eliminates some of the issues that would result from seeding or sodding. First, we used the plugs directly off of the rest of #15 green, ensuring that the new part of the green will be as closely matched to the rest of the green as is possible. Also, the soil beneath the turf will match perfectly as well, which will help to eliminate any layering issues.

The goal was to add some square footage to the front right of the green. This was done for a couple of reasons. First, gaining putting surface area in that corner will allow for more pin locations in that lower area. By expanding the green by the little that we did we have added about two more pin locations. This is positive because more pin locations mean we can allow more time for old plugs to heal before we have to rotate back to the same place. Also, adding pin locations means that there is increased variety of setup options. Now there will be some variety of location when the pin is placed in the lower right bowl of the green.

The second reason we expanded the green was to help accentuate the new design of the steep face of rough that will guard the green. By bringing the green forward where we did, the bunker in the front now looks like it pushes further into the green. Also, the corner of rough that wraps around the front right corner of the green will have a much nicer, round look to it based on the new shape of the green. Prior to this minor change, the rough would have had a very angular, sharp edge that would have looked fabricated. Now, the turn will be smooth and natural looking.

This section of expanded green will take some time to mature. It is not an immediate surface like sod. However, once mature, the result will be better than sod and will play more like the rest of the green.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Fall aeration

Fall aeration will be in progress as you read this. Few things are as beneficial to the turf grass as aeration. Few things are as frustrating to golfers as aeration. We try to minimize all disruption to play and finish our cultural practices as quickly as possible. Similar to spring aeration, the greens and tees will be aerated, however in the fall we add fairways into the mix.

The greens aeration is handled by our staff. We have one aerator for this process but it is one of the fastest machines on the market. We will do the front 9 greens on Monday and the back 9 will be open for play. On Tuesday, the opposite will take place. We will aerate the back 9 greens and the front 9 will be open for play. On the greens we will use a combination of solid and hollow tines. This will reduce the amount of cleanup required but will still put as many holes in the surface. Although the greens will be less than ideal for a time, aerating now will allow for ample healing time heading in to the fall season. As the day lengths get shorter and overnight temperatures drop, we will be able to push the greens more and make the putting surfaces very nice all fall. If we waited to aerate it would impact the play in September and October a great deal more. Tee aeration is also handled by our staff using the same machine we use on the greens. Once the greens are finished we jump straight to the tees.

The tee aeration will require much less cleanup work though because we will be using solid tines that do not pull a core on most of the tees. Also, all master plan tees constructed this year will not need to be aerated. This makes the aeration of the tees almost a non-issue to golfers.

The biggest difference between spring and fall aeration is with the Bermuda grass. In the spring the Bermuda grass is just breaking dormancy and aerating it at that time would not be productive. The grass would not be growing vigorously enough to handle the disturbance and the holes would be open for a long time. Therefore, aeration of the Bermuda grass is done in summer when the plants are growing at their highest rate.  This will allow some much needed oxygen to penetrate the soil and spark the Bermuda grass. Another positive aspect that we hope will have long term benefits is the relief of compaction that aeration will provide. There is a correlation between compaction and spring dead spot. Although there are several contributing factors, anything we can do to help alleviate this problem in the Bermuda grass will be valuable. For the fairways we will have a company come in and perform the aeration for us. Because of the acreage of fairways, man-power needed, and equipment required, it is not feasible for us to undertake this task. The fairways will be aerated on Tuesday. Any new sod on holes 3, 15, 17 will not be aerated at this time. This will help to speed the process and should allow for all fairways to be completed in one day.

Spring and fall aeration are about a week of disruption combined. The disturbance to play is minimal and the turf grass heals very quickly. So while it may seem as though “we are aerating again already?” the true impact on golfers and the playability of the course is far from intrusive.

 See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Superintendent tools

Just like any profession, a superintendent has tools of his trade. There are variations and one superintendent may have preferences for a certain tool or type of tool versus another, but there are a few tools that you would probably find handy at any golf course.

Soil probe: A soil probe can be invaluable during pretty much any time of year. By taking a core sample, we are able to observe several things in a short time. We can monitor moisture content, root structure, anaerobic soil conditions, soil texture and structure, just to name a few. Each of these plays a role in the health of the turf. With this one tool we can gain insight into the health of the plant and the soil. We carry the typical stainless steel probe seen below. But we also use a modified golf shaft for quicker, smaller samples. The golf shaft is something that is never far from our reach starting in March all the way through to October. It is most efficient for monitoring soil moisture, and far less disruptive than the larger probe.

Thermometer: This is not a tool that was designed solely for turf grass managers. It is no different than any other thermometer. We use it to measure soil temperatures. So many factors regarding health of turf, possible pest increases, timing of agronomic practices, and stress rely heavily on soil temperatures. Cool season turf has an optimal range of soil temperatures for growth which is 55-80 degrees Fahrenheit. If we can monitor this and know when the soil has reached the lower limit we can plan cultural practices. Likewise, through monitoring, when the upper limit has been reached and passed, we know that we need to be aware that the turf is under severe stress and plan accordingly.

Paint/paint gun: Paint and a paint gun can hardly be labeled as agronomic tools, but they can play a key role in projects occurring on the golf course. We paint lines to mark edges for new sod lines during sod projects. When adding or replacing grass, painting lines allows us to see where new lines of grass will be and how this looks rather than cutting and replacing sod and realizing it is not correct. It is also easy to tell our staff to replace everything “inside of a particular rectangle”, or “everything to the left of a certain line” without having to be there. If we have to dig, to prevent accidentally breaking the irrigation lines, we will paint the approximate location of the pipes prior to breaking ground.

Whether it is tools truly meant for a golf course superintendent or not, certain items are key to almost any operation. Simple tools that allow for insights into the health of the turf grass are critical to the daily maintenance of the plants.

 See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Tee surface re-sodding

We hope you all like the changes that have taken place as a result of the Master Plan construction thus far. The changes are very exciting for the Grounds department as well. Bunkers that don’t puddle, rectangular, in-line tee boxes with more square footage, and Bermuda grass surfaces are all great improvements for our operation. One change that will happen over the next few weeks in conjunction with the Master Plan work is the converting of some previously reconstructed tees to Bermuda grass surfaces as well.

Holes 5-9 were reconstructed under previous Master Plan work and the tee tops were seeded to ryegrass. Ryegrass can be a great surface to play from on fairways, collars, or tees in the appropriate conditions with the appropriate amount of inputs necessary. We have a very strict budget and many acres to maintain at the facility and this does not suit the needs of ryegrass tees very well. The ryegrass does not tolerate the heat and humidity and once the plant begins to suffer, disease and death can quickly follow. Water and fungicides can alleviate some of the issues, but the time and money needed to baby the ryegrass through the summer sometimes outlasts our budget. The final problem with ryegrass is that it does not regenerate from healthy tissue and spread over thin areas as other grass species do. Ryegrass must be reseeded to establish new turf. Unfortunately, seeding in July and August is extremely difficult, especially on a high traffic area such as a tee. Because of these issues, new tees constructed under this year’s Master Plan work are being sodded to the same Bermuda grass variety as the fairways: Riviera.

To strive for consistency and sustainability, our staff will undertake the task of converting the tee complexes on holes 5-9 to Bermuda grass as well. To do this as economically as possible, we will be salvaging some Bermuda grass from the fairways slated to be reconstructed in this year’s Master Plan work. Ahead of construction, our staff will strip and remove any viable Bermuda grass sod prior to earth-moving and replace the ryegrass tee surfaces on holes 5-9 where possible.

In the coming weeks we will try and tackle several back tee boxes and some forward tee boxes while maintaining playability. Back tees that we convert to Bermuda grass will be removed from play for a short time and tee markers will be placed on the tee box immediately in front. Forward tees that we convert will also be closed for a short time and tee markers may either be placed in the fairway ahead of the tee box where feasible or placed at the front of the tee box immediately behind the forward tee.

We hope that with rounds down through the month of August and prime Bermuda grass growing weather, these re-sodded tee boxes will only be out of commission for a couple of weeks. The goal is to do as much of this process as possible with “free” Bermuda grass sod and to eventually complete the renovation of all the surfaces on these holes.

 

 See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Stepcut and fairway adjustments

Bermuda grass is a very strong and hardy turf grass. However, it does have weaknesses and sometimes the replacement with another type of grass is the best solution. This is the case with three specific spots on the golf course: the left side of #18 fairway about 150 yards off the tee near the big tree; left side of #1 fairway about 50 yards short of the green near the big tree; left side of #7 fairway about 80 yards short of the green near the big tree. We have completed work on the spot on #18 with both Bermuda and tall fescue sod. Work on #7 has Bermuda sod done while on #1 no Bermuda sod will be laid and tall fescue sod is pending.

#18



#18

All three of these spots have one thing in common: they are located near a big tree. Trees provide many great things to a golf course including aesthetics, protection from wayward shots, and cool shade on a hot day. But big trees also take away from the health of turf grass that grows near them. The roots of the tree take away the water and nutrients that the grass plant needs. The shade from the limbs takes away the sunlight that the turf grass plant needs. All grasses need water, nutrients, and sun; however some species are more adept at surviving when one or more is limited. Such is the case with tall fescue versus Bermuda grass. The Bermuda grass under the tree on #18 was very thin or non-existent because of the shade from the tree. To alleviate this problem we shifted the lines of turf species out away from the tree. Now, a new step-cut line has been sodded in Bermuda grass and what was previously Bermuda grass step-cut and fairway has been replaced with tall fescue. This pushes the Bermuda grass out from under the tree and gives it a better chance to survive. The tall fescue that is now under the tree is better adapted to deal with those conditions.

The same process is underway on #7 and #1 as well. On #7 we will be installing the tall fescue as soon as we can, but because we have easy access to the Bermuda grass sod at our nursery, that sod has been laid. On #1 we will let the existing Bermuda grass recover and grow and only lay tall fescue sod.

#1

 

When you are out playing you will notice these areas and it may seem like a very small change, but giving the Bermuda grass that small increase in distance from the drip line of the tree will help its chances of survival tremendously. This will improve the playability of fairway and step-cut turf on each of these holes.

#7

 

 

 

 

 

 

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Course setup changes

Over the last few months you may have noticed a few minor changes to setup around the course. Every superintendent is different and we all like to put our own little spin on the courses we maintain. We like to have control over as much as possible because our jobs require us to react to things over which we don’t have control, like the weather. Since we have been in a daily maintenance routine, tee marker setup, cup changing procedure and selecting pin locations have been slightly altered.

When a person plays the same course repeatedly it can become monotonous and mundane. Very little changes in how the course plays yardage and difficulty wise. In order to combat this feeling, we do a few different things during our course setup. First, tee markers have been moved to the full width of the tee boxes. This may seem like a minor change and many of you probably didn’t even notice the difference. However, by increasing the width of the tee setup, each particular hole can be attacked in several ways just from the tee box. With the added space, a player can now tee up far to either side and play a draw or fade accordingly, and thus gain the extra yardage right or left needed to truly make the shot. In different conditions each shot shape may be more beneficial than another and having the flexibility to choose allows for that hole to play a little different than it did the day before. The downside of having the tee markers at the full width of the tee box is that the divot area is increased. However, we believe that spacing the divots out will actually help them heal quicker because they are surrounded by more healthy turf than if all the divots are concentrated in a small area. This also leads into another minor change we have started. Because of the potential for increased divot area, we are moving the tee markers frequently. This, again, may not seem like a big change and the act of moving tee markers is not a change. Now we like to move them more drastically forward and back. This again makes the course play slightly different over time. When a par 3 hole played 180 yards from a specific tee color and then next time it played 150 yards a lot of thought must be given. As mentioned, now the member who plays all the time can no longer walk to a hole grab out the same club they ALWAYS grab and hit the same tee shot they ALWAYS hit. We have introduced some thought and variability.

Anyone who has been out early in the morning has probably seen the flags laying on the greens. This is not a problem. That is exactly where the flags are supposed to be. Another new aspect we have started is how we choose the location of the new pin placement. Now, instead of leaving the decision up to our staff, I place each flag exactly where I want it. This is valuable for several reasons. First, efficiency in cup changing is increased. No longer does the staff member who is changing cups have to walk around the green, find a spot, think about if it is fair or not, then change the cup. When he walks up to a green he goes directly to where the flag is laying and immediately starts to change the cup. I have already determined the validity of the location for him. Second, this also allows for more variability of the golf hole. By choosing the location myself, more challenging and interesting areas of the greens can be used. Most of our staff does not play golf regularly or often at all. While they are tremendous at their jobs, the intricacies of choosing pin placements is not their strength. Having someone who plays and understands golf more in-depth can allow for new, tougher, yet fair locations that otherwise may not have been used. Lastly, this process takes the responsibility of questionable pin placements away from the staff and puts it on the managers in the grounds department. The staff member who changes the cup does not need that burden. That burden should be placed on management. As management, we should be able to answer for all that is done on the course we maintain. This includes pin placements. If there is ever an issue with a pin location we can stand up and say “yes we chose that location and these are our reasons,” instead of saying, “well someone else put it there it’s not my fault.”

We are glad that our members enjoy playing Bretton Woods many, many times over the course of the season. We enjoy adding interesting twists to the course so that, though playing the same course continually, subtle changes allow for excitement each time.

 

 See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org