Rough seeding

The rough grass is a mixture of grasses and can be seen with the slice lines from the seeder.

As we continue to look for ways to improve, one step we are taking is to begin seeding the rough. Bermuda grass is very aggressive and can begin to push outward from the fairways into the surrounding rough. When it goes dormant, the definition of green rough and brown fairways is mottled with brown spots of Bermuda grass that have moved into the rough. This creates an unattractive, undefined edge. So we seed tall fescue into these areas to help redefine the edge and create a crisp look.

Green lines of emerging seedlings can be seen in this picture and the photo below.    

We are in a difficult position because we do not have full irrigation of our rough outside of the fairways. The majority of our rough grass relies on water from the fairway sprinklers. Because Bermuda grass is a heat and drought tolerant turf grass, we are able to conserve water and keep our fairways drier than many. The downside of this fact is that when we hit a dry spell of rainfall and we do not need to water the fairways, our rough suffers. The rough can become thin in areas and the Bermuda grass will take the opportunity to move outward and fill in those areas. With a sharp edge of definition between the green rough and dormant fairways, the visual appeal can be striking. However, the Bermuda grass infiltrating the rough ruins the look and makes the edge look sloppy.

We seeded in mid-November. This is a good time to seed because we usually receive enough rainfall to help the seed germinate and grow. Also, the Bermuda grass is dormant so it is not competing with the new seed. With our new seeder purchased last year, we seeded at least 5 feet around every fairway. In most areas, this covered the extent to which the Bermuda grass had moved into the rough. In addition to redefining the edge, we also seeded in a more drought tolerant variety of turf grass to help with stress in low rainfall stretches. So far, the results have been terrific and we have grass growing everywhere we seeded.

Moving forward, we will continue to focus on the rough immediately outside the fairways first. Continual seeding will help shift the balance of grass back towards cool season rough grass instead of Bermuda grass. We will also expand to include more and more rough areas as we continue. We will seed into green surrounds, deeper rough, and the rough between tees and fairways.

Although many people dislike the look of the dormant Bermuda grass, if we maintain a clean, dormant fairway surface and we maintain clean rough, the contrast between the two will be very visually appealing.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please stay off all grass surfaces during a frost delay.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Deep tine aerating

This week we will be deep tine aerating the greens. Although it may seem like a strange time to aerate, using specialized tines at this time of year can lead to great benefits throughout the year.

Deep tine aerating uses long, skinny tines to push deep into the greens. The tines are about 10” long and 1/2” thick and solid, so there is no core produced. There are a couple of main benefits to this process. First, because of the length of these tines, they break through any potential layers that may have developed in the soil. Our normal aerating procedure only penetrates about 2.5 inches into the soil. Over time, a layer of semi-compacted soil can develop exactly at the depth of normal aeration. As this compacted layer continues to progress, the roots of the turf can stop growing any deeper than that layer. Deeper roots equal a stronger root system as well as an increased ability to contact water, oxygen, and nutrients. These channels will stay open deep in the soil long after the holes have disappeared from the surface. By pushing through the layer, the deep tines will open up avenues for water, oxygen, and roots to move deeper into the soil.

Allowing the water to move deeper into the soil is the second benefit of the process. Especially during the winter, excess water at the surface can be very detrimental. When the ground freezes, any water trapped at the surface freezes as well and can lead to winter kill of the turf grass. Creating the channels in the soil now, will give that excess water an opening to leave the surface and move further down in the soil profile throughout the winter.

The aerators are mounted on a tractor with special tires that allow it to drive directly across the greens while making minimal tracks. Once the aerator is finished, we will roll the green to smooth out the tire tracks and close up the holes. Once we have rolled, there will be little evidence that anything was even done at the surface, but the openings will remain deep in the soil.

We expect to incorporate deep tine aerating as an annual process. Similar to our regular aerating practices, creating a program and repeating it regularly is when the benefits are at their greatest. While performing the deep tine aeration once in a while would still be a benefit, continually breaking through any layers and opening the deeper sections of soil every year, is where the greatest rewards are found.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be careful not to damage the lip of the cup when retrieving your ball after putting out.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Preparing greens for winter

Towards the end of the summer this year we discussed how we were going to approach our maintenance practices for the new Bermuda sod heading into fall and winter. Adjusting mowing heights and reducing wear on this turf is a vital aspect to our plan. These same principles are applied to our maintenance of greens.

Our greens are our most important piece of property. We focus the greatest deal of our energy and resources towards them. Similarly, we are also very conscious of taking great care of them when we head towards winter. While the greens do not completely stop growing at all during the year, when it is very cold they do slow to a crawl. Growing this slowly means that any damage will not heal. So we make sure to prevent any damage we can, and to reduce any stress going into the winter.

Raising mowing heights is the first and most easily achieved tactic we employ. The philosophy behind raising mowing height on the putting greens is very similar to that of Bermuda grass; more leaf tissue equals more roots, which equals a healthier plant headed into stressful times. We raise the height of the greens by .03-.035” gradually as winter approaches. This may seem minuscule, but it is a 30% increase over our regular height. 30% increase in roots, leaves, food production, and stress tolerance prepares the plant for handling winter.

In addition to mowing at a higher height of cut, we also mow less frequently. The growth of the grass slows, thus the need to be mowed declines. Mowing is also stressful to the plant, even though it is a regular practice. In fact, many of the practices we perform on the greens are stressful. Winter is also stressful on the plant, even though it is inevitable and turf grass has survived many winters before and will survive many more to come. However, if we can do anything to build the strength of the plant, we try to help. So our strategy is to mow less and roll more. Rolling is also stressful to the plant, but the far, far less than mowing. So we trade 1-2 cuts per week for a roll instead.

Topdressing is another practice that we use to help with winter strength. Putting sand on the surface of the greens is very common for us and is something we do all through the year. Continuing the practice through the fall and winter is our goal. One of the greatest benefits of the addition of sand to the soil profile is increasing water infiltration and percolation. Allowing water to break through the turf soil surface and then allowing it to move down through the root zone, means the water is not drowning the plant. This allows oxygen to stay in the soil. The sand topdressing on the greens also helps to physically protect the plant. The sand is applied lightly and falls into the canopy of the turf grass. The sand particles settle into the canopy and surround the crown of the plant, which is the “head” of the grass. This sand layer protects the plant from the cold and traffic.

We beat the turf up in spring and summer, so the least we can do is help the turf headed into winter.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please remember to keep your cart on the cart path when we are “Cart Path Only.”

Please note that beginning in November we will reduce our posts to 1 per month. Thank you.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Fall frost

This is a post that was written October 20^th of 2014; after this past weekend it is fitting that nearly 1 year later exactly we are experiencing our first frost conditions. So we thought it may be useful to refresh on some of the differences between spring and fall frosts:

October 20^th, 2014:

Lucky for everyone involved, we get to deal with frost twice per year: spring and fall. Dealing with the frost and the subsequent delay differs slightly between spring and fall.

Spring frost occurs as everything is coming out of winter. The ground is very cold and the turf has spent months adjusting and hardening off to the cold weather. The turf’s ability to withstand frost damage is as high as it will get. Though it is still vulnerable, the natural defense of the grass has been built up through enduring the cold winter. None of this is true in regards to frosts that occur in the fall.

In the fall, the ground is not cold, which helps to make the first few frosts not as severe. But it also means that the turf is not yet ready to deal with the low temperatures. Because the grass is still adjusting to the cold, it is at its most vulnerable for damage. Luckily, because these initial frosts are not heavy, damage is usually minimal. Also, because the daytime temperatures and soil temperatures are still relatively high, the grass is usually able to grow out of any damage that may occur. Nevertheless, the early fall frosts are still a time to be very cautious and allow the turf to adjust to the cold.

The most crucial fall frost is the first heavy frost. This is the frost that makes everything look white when you look out on the course. We must be very careful with this frost because there is a high risk of damage. The plant’s defenses are just kicking into gear and the growth has slowed so recovery would be minimal.

The Grounds department has some strategies to deal with and help shorten the frost delay. But there is one strategy in particular that is not always available in the spring that is available in the fall. As mentioned, the soil temperature in the fall is still high. The soil is insulated and it takes much longer for the soil temperatures to change compared to air temperature. So although the air temperature may drop below freezing early in the fall, chances are, the soil temperature is nowhere near that cold. This has two implications. First, because the ground is not freezing, it means that we have not shut down the irrigation system yet. The ground has not become cold enough to freeze the water in the pipes so there is no worry of burst pipes. So we have the irrigation system at our disposal. Having irrigation water available means that we can “water the frost off” the turf. Basic chemical properties of water state that above 32 degrees Fahrenheit water is a liquid and not frozen. The frost on the turf grass plant is below 32 degrees. So the irrigation water is warmer than the frost on the plant and irrigating the frost will melt it or at least turn it to a slushy-icy mix. Seeing the slush on the plant versus frost, means that the plant is no longer cold enough to cause water molecules to freeze on the surface and create frost. Now the cells inside the plant are thawed too so the frost damage potential is nearly eliminated.

This does not mean that we simply turn on all the sprinklers on the course and declare the frost delay over. Timing of watering the frost off is still crucial. If the irrigation is used too early, when the air temperature is still too cold, the plant will thaw momentarily only to re-freeze. This is often the case in shaded areas. The coldest part of the morning is just at sunrise. The surface of the earth has been losing heat all night and morning, all the way until the sun starts to rise and begin heating the earth again. Once the sun starts warming the turf, frost can be eliminated quickly with only a quick watering. However, in the shade, where the sun has not had a significant affect yet, turning the irrigation will not provide the same response.

Understanding frost in general is critical for the Grounds department. Just as important, is our understanding of the subtle differences between spring and fall frosts, as well as the strategies we can use to get golfers on the course as soon as possible which is always our goal.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please remember to keep your cart on the cart path when we are “Cart Path Only.”

*Please note that beginning in November we will reduce our posts to 1 per month. Thank you

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Seeding green surrounds

Fall seems to be in full swing now. We have had some terrific days, but the plentiful sunshine just doesn’t quite pack the punch that it does in summer months. However, the cooler nights, rain, and sun do help us make some repairs around the course after a long summer.

We did suffer some turf loss in the rough around the greens. A combination of poor irrigation equipment performance, inferior turf species, and very dry weather all contributed to the decline in the rough seen on several holes.

We have sprinklers at each green that water the greens and rough, but we also have sprinklers that only water the rough. These are adjustable so they can be set to not get any water on the putting surface. However, over time these can slowly work themselves out of adjustment and begin to water where they are not supposed to or, like this year, not water where they should be. Areas that were supposed to be receiving water were not and the turf suffered. We will be checking each sprinkler this winter to ensure we start out next year correct and we will increase our diligence in monitoring in-season.

The overwhelming majority of damage occurred on holes that have not been reconstructed yet. Holes where Master Plan work is complete suffered little if any damage because the rough grass sod that is used during construction is tall fescue, which is a very drought tolerant turf grass. On the holes where damage occurred, the majority of the grass is ryegrass which is far less drought tolerant. With the less drought-resistant ryegrass already weak, experiencing an exceptionally dry August and September magnified our imperfections and mistakes. This is what led to the clumps of grass mixed in the bare areas. Species that were able to survive the late summer were growing right next to other species that did not survive.

All of the damaged areas have recently been re-seeded with tall fescue and the seedlings are growing quickly already. These areas will fill in shortly. We will continue to incorporate more tall fescue whenever and wherever we can, either with sod or seed, to maintain playable rough around the greens all year.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please remember to keep your cart on the cart path when we are “Cart Path Only.”

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

#7 bunker project follow-up

Our work on the bunkers at #7 green went very well this week. Aside from adding a “freshening” coat of sand to the far right bunker, we are all done. We took pictures to mark our progress but to also help illustrate exactly how the bunkers had changed from when they were rebuilt, as part of the master plan up until now.

This picture shows the beginning of the process of removing old sand from the left bunker. We used our skid steer for the majority of sand and then shovels for the remainder. You can see how the old sand has been scooped away up to the edges.

Once the old sand had been removed, we sod-cut two passes around the lip of the bunker. After removing the sod, we began to shave the built-up sand off of the original bunker soil edge.

This picture is the same as above with added marks for reference. It helps to illustrate how much sand had been built up over time. The black lines represent where the original bunker was built. The red lines trace where the bunker edge had shifted to when we began our work.

This picture gives a ground-level perspective to show how much sand was accumulated on the soil.

You can clearly see the two distinct lines in this picture: one is the soil of the original bunker, the other is the sand built up on top.

Again, this picture has added marking for reference. Black traces the soil and red traces the edge as it was before we started our work.

This picture is taken looking down at the sand build-up on the lip of the bunker.

Same picture with added markings. Again, black traces original edge and red traces sand edge.

This shows a portion of the bunker completely shaved and edged back to its original state.

The left bunker on #7 after removing all of the sand, stripping the sod, and shaving the edges all the way around.

Grounds staff adding new sand to the bunker.

Adding new sand.

The completed bunker on the left of #7 green. New sand and new sod have been installed.

This picture is from work being done to the far right bunker at #7 green. We did not entirely replace the sand in this bunker. Instead we clear a 3-4' swath around the edge that gives us room to work and keeps soil from contaminating the sand while we work.

Piling all of the sand in the middle allows us to re-use the sand after we finish re-sodding the edge. We clean up our sod, shave the edge, and then push the sand back out to the edges. We will add a small layer of fresh sand just to brighten the bunker.

The work done this past week was labor intensive. However, staying on top of this process for all of the bunkers extends the overall life of the bunker. 

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please remember to keep your cart on the cart path when we are “Cart Path Only.”

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

#7 bunker project

We will be starting a bunker project this week on #7 greenside bunkers. We will be removing the old sand, adding fresh sand, and making some repairs to the bunker face.

The bunkers on #7 were some of the first to be done as part of the master plan. Over time, sand shifts, is lost from the bunker, and becomes contaminated with soil. The sand needs to be replaced to ensure that water will continue to drain through and not puddle in the bunker. Also, over time, sand accumulates along the edge of the bunker and three main things happen:

·         The edge of the bunker can rise. This happens because the surface where the grass grows gradually gets higher due to the addition of sand.

·         The perimeter of the bunker will slowly get smaller and the overall size of the bunker can shrink. This happens as more sand collects around the edge and the grass grows in further and further.

·         The grass face along the edge can erode and turf can break off. The newly accumulated sand along the edge is far looser than the soil beneath and it can break free due to rain, Grounds staff walking around the edge, or golfers climbing out of the bunker.

Our process will consist of removing the old sand and storing at the shop for another purpose, stripping the sod along the entire edge of the bunker, shaving the built-up sand off of the soil, adding new sand to the bunker, re-sodding the edge, and then redistributing the new sand.

Our goal is to perform this entire process on the left and front right greenside bunkers. The far right greenside bunker does not need new sand, so we will only strip, clean, and re-sod the edge. Weather and other course responsibilities will impact the speed of the project most directly but we hope to be done at #7 green by the end of the week.

From #7, the plan will be to go to #6 and then #8 green bunkers. #6 and 8 are the next two worst bunker situations. Neither of these holes needs new sand, so it will be only the new edge work to accomplish. Once these are complete we will evaluate where to go next or if we should move on to other projects. The scope of the bunker project is to re-sod the edges of all the bunkers from 4 green through 9. These bunkers are all several years old and are in need of these same repairs. If, after we finish #6 and 8, we decide to pursue other projects, we will continue this project in the spring or this same time next year.

During the work at each bunker, that particular bunker will be played as Ground Under Repair and will have a sign denoting this as well.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please do not hit into the Grounds department staff while we are working- it is dangerous. Please be sure that we see you before hitting your shot.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Dry weather

How dry is it?

It has been very dry over the last several weeks. An occasional spat of rain has come through, but nothing appreciable. We have been maintaining areas throughout the course on irrigation alone. However, irrigation is not a replacement for rain. Irrigation is meant as a means to get from one rain event to the next.

You can see the faint outline of the old cart path on #3

Using general numbers that can be found online, our area receives about 4” of rain in July, another 4” of rain in August, and 4.5” of rain in September. July and August were both under half of our average rainfall totals. So far, we have not received any rain in September and the forecast is expected to stay very dry.

So, what does this mean for the turf? First, as it gets progressively drier, areas under trees and areas where there is no irrigation go completely brown and dormant. As the dry trend goes longer these brown, dry areas begin to get larger. We expend our resources- time, money, labor- on keeping “down the center” healthy. This means that we focus on the tees, fairways, and greens. The greens are the top priority and take up the most resources. We spend many hours with a hose hitting the driest areas.

You will also see that there are many areas of Bermuda grass that are turning brown. This is a clear cut sign of how dry it is. Bermuda grass is especially adapted to warm weather, but even it needs some water. We currently only sparingly water the fairways to conserve water for other needs. The beauty of the Bermuda grass is that it will bounce right back as soon as we get rain.

Large area of brown Bermuda grass on 18 fairway

We have to monitor the level of water in our irrigation pond near #17 as well. We have a limited amount of water available before we have to rent a pump and pump water from the river to recharge our supply. We have already had to pump once in August and it looks as though we will have to pump one more time still. This is another benefit of having Bermuda grass. If we were constantly running irrigation on the fairways we would run out of water much faster. Over a dry period like we are currently experiencing, we may have to pump water for a month or longer, which would become very expensive.

We have worked very hard to maintain the course in a very playable condition. Enjoy the extra roll in the fairways and firm greens.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please do not hit into the Grounds department staff because it is dangerous. Please be sure that we see you before hitting your shot.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Bunker projects

We are only a week away from the start of fall and the temperatures have only just started to feel fall-like. Fall golf can be some of the best golf of the year. The Grounds department is also able to start some much needed projects around the course.

One project which we have already completed is checking the depth of sand in all of the bunkers on the course. It is amazing the amount of shifting the sand can do over a season, let alone multiple years. The newest bunkers from last year’s construction needed only slight adjustments. However, some of the bunkers we worked required major changes. The two biggest culprits that cause the sand to shift are weather (rain and wind) and maintenance. Heavy rainstorms can wash the sand from one end of a bunker and deposit it in the other end. Wind can also slowly move sand. Usually, the wind blows the sand completely out of the bunker, leaving areas shallower than we want. The second major cause of sand shifting is regular maintenance. The machine we use does a good job of smoothing out the sand, preparing it for play. However, to make the surface smooth, the machine pulls a lot of sand along with it, redistributing it in lower areas. In addition, hitting bunker shots splashes sand out and routine player raking also play a minor role in changing the sand depths within the bunker.

We start by digging into the sand in the bunker in a grid pattern checking to make sure there is adequate sand evenly spread throughout. Too much on the face can lead to plugged lies, too little in the bottom can lead to players striking soil with their swing. Once we have determined where there is excess and where there is a need, we move sand accordingly. We use shovels, a small grading blade on the front of the bunker machine, and this year we even used our skid loader! Some of the bunkers needed MULTIPLE CART LOADS of sand moved from location to another. Once repositioned, the sand is leveled and compacted. While time consuming and labor-intensive, adjusting the depth of sand is essential to maintaining bunker playability.

Here is a pile of sand that we are moving from one end of the bunker to the other.

The second project, which we have not yet started, will be to re-sod the bunker edges around the bunkers on holes 5-9. These were the first holes reconstructed as part of the master plan and are in need of some upkeep. These bunkers are still performing well from their improvements, but over time sand collects in the sod immediately surrounding the bunker. The loose sand can easily give way and the turf will break away from the bunker face. Also, a lip forms around the bunker creating an area where a ball may come to lie and making a very difficult shot. We will pull sand away from the sod, strip out the old sod, lay new sod in its place, and push the sand back. Our goal is to start in October.

Bunkers are hazards from which shots are not supposed to be played. However, even the best golfers end up in the sand so we spend many man-hours making sure that the bunkers are prepared as best as possible.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please do not hit into the Grounds department staff because it is dangerous. Please be sure that we see you before hitting your shot.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Small projects

This picture shows the prior location of the porta-john.

Sometimes the smallest projects can have a big impact on how the course is presented. The changes can seem minor and they usually occur in non-play areas, but they can have a big impact on the aesthetics and appeal of the course. In the last week we have completed two such projects.

First, we re-positioned the porta-john between 8 green and 9 tee. The previous location did an ok job of hiding the structure from view, but it was in a very sloped spot with no grass. Whenever it rained, the mud from the surrounding area would wash into the outhouse. This was unsightly for anyone using the facility and made extra work for the Grounds department. Now we have moved the porta-john down the hill to a much more level location. Also, since moving the porta-john took it away from the trees that were blocking it from view, we planted 5 new trees, staggered in front of the outhouse to provide screening. This facility is certainly not a fancy golf course bathroom, but it is our current situation, and by relocating it and properly blocking it from the view of golfers, we have upgraded to the best extent possible.

New location and screening trees. The topped pine in the background will be removed.

There is a cart turnaround area behind the white tee on #9. There was also an area that collected water with no place to go. Rain and irrigation would run across the cart path to this one spot; it would collect and remain there for days on end with no place to drain. We were unable to mow this section of the tee surround because it would stay too wet. Occasionally, it would dry out just enough that we would attempt to mow it and make a muddy mess. This week we installed a drain in this location. We created a sump with a 12” inlet to collect the water and ran a drain pipe out to the native grass area away from the tee. We still encourage the water to flow to the same area, but now we have given it a place to go. The water will drain into the tall grass area and no longer affect our mowing. More importantly, the area behind the white tee at the cart turnaround will no longer have a mud hole that every white, blue, or black tee player sees each time.

Muddy area prior to our work

Often times when something looks good or the way it should, it is easy to miss or forget after seeing it. However, when something looks bad it sticks out like a sore thumb and sticks in everyone’s mind. Such was the case with these two areas of the course. Neither of these changes affects how the golf course plays; however, the small details are what differentiate one course from another. Our small detail work is by no means complete. The course is not where we want or expect it to be, but crossing a couple of eyesores of the list is a step in the right direction. Going forward they will be out of everyone’s mind and that means a win for the Grounds department!

Completed drain area at 9 tee

Happy Labor Day!

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please do not hit into the Grounds department staff because it is dangerous. Please be sure that we see you before hitting your shot.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Pylex treatment on 4 approach

The evidence of chemical treatment has rarely been as clear as it is on #4 approach over the last week. Small and medium splotches of bright white turf mixed in with the green has made for a very different appearance. It is unsightly, but it is not without reason. Each spot contained a weed called goose grass. It is a weed that appears at a similar time to crabgrass and can be equally as difficult to manage.

#4 approach was especially hard hit by Spring Dead Spot (SDS). The reason or reasons that this particular area was more severely affected than other areas is only conjecture. What we do know, though, is that because of the severe disease infection, it allowed bare areas to be infested with goose grass. The Bermuda grass is very slow to heal across the patches and the opportunistic weed pounces. Similar to other areas of the course, there was some less than desirable pre-emergent weed control on this spot also. When combined with the disease-weakened Bermuda grass, it was only a matter of time before the weeds filled in the voids.

In years past, goose grass was very difficult to control chemically. The most effective defense was pre-emergent control. Once that was defeated, hand-picking the weeds was the most effective tactic; but for this situation, there were too many small plants to hand pick efficiently. Recently, a new herbicide has been developed that does a tremendous job controlling goose grass. However, it is also tremendous at injuring Bermuda grass. This is why #4 approach is dotted with white spots. The herbicide works by disrupting carotenoid biosynthesis, which directly affects photosynthesis. Treated plants slowly turn white as chlorophyll is depleted, and the weeds can no longer produce food causing them to die.

The treated spots are easily visible. However, imagine if everything within the black lines was as white as the spots from a broadcast spray. Spot treating was the best option in this case.

We spot sprayed #4 approach with this new chemical and were very diligent to spray as little as possible on any Bermuda grass. Goose grass was intermixed directly into the Bermuda grass so we were unable to keep the herbicide off the Bermuda 100%; however, we were far more successful than if we had done a broadcast spray across the entire approach. We were willing to tolerate some injury to the desirable turf in order to treat the weed issue.

The good news is that Bermuda grass is extremely resilient and will only be injured by the herbicide not killed. The extensive root system of the Bermuda grass allows some of its leaves to be affected but also allows it to still be able to translocate food to the main growing points of the plant and outgrow the herbicide damage. Over the next couple of weeks the color will return to the Bermuda grass but not to the weeds. They will still be visibly white until they turn brown, shrivel and die.

In related work, we are also plugging new Bermuda grass into other SDS areas in the fairways. By taking unaffected turf from our nursery and introducing it into the bare areas, we hope to establish some viable Bermuda grass.  We cannot 100% control SDS, but healthy Bermuda grass is the first defense, so getting these thin areas to fill in as much as possible before winter is key. We will also continue our other planned SDS control measures. Between the plugs and other means we will continue to reduce the quantity and severity of the Spring Dead Spot issues

Bermuda grass is a tremendous turf for our situation at Bretton Woods. Spring Dead Spot is its one Achilles heel, but between new herbicides and our increasing knowledge for handling and treating for the disease, we continue to try and improve the Bermuda grass conditions at Bretton Woods.

Etiquette Reminder of the Week

Thank you for using the green sand to fill your divots on the course. Please remember to not overfill the divots. A mound of sand will damage our mowers.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Knowledge gained from last year

There are still a couple of loose ends to tie up with regards to this year’s construction, i.e. paving and trees. However, the overall course construction is finished and as of this past weekend everything is open and ready for play. As everyone enjoys the new designs, you may notice that the Bermuda grass seems a little shaggy.

Last year was a great learning experience for incorporating large amounts of sodded areas into our regular maintenance routine. We had such large areas of disturbance that our goal was to get everything into immediate playing condition as quickly as possible. This year, while we opened everything as quickly as possible (tees were actually opened quicker this year than the tees last year), we are being more careful with the new Bermuda grass sod.

In our eagerness to incorporate the sod last year we unknowingly set up 5 different test trials on managing the new sod. We mowed the fairway sod as soon as we could with our heavy mowers at the same height as the rest of the fairway (trial 1). We mowed the approaches with our regular approach mower at the same height as other approaches (trial 2). It was the same scenario on tees (trial 3) and with the step-cut (trial 4). The tees were mowed with an even lighter walk mower and the step-cut was mowed at the highest height of cut of all the sod. We also had 2 acres of Bermuda grass laid on the new soccer field (trial 5). This sod we didn’t touch. We spread compost on it and sprayed it for Spring Dead Spot control. But we never mowed it. Each trial was simply us doing our normal routine, but we learned something from each area.

Each area described above produced differing quality of turf this year. From this we gained some clues as to how we can aid the Bermuda grass sod survive the winter and come out in spring as healthy as possible. Everyone saw how poorly 3 and 15 fairway sod did early in the year. We are still just getting those areas into shape now. About mid-summer we began to see a distinct difference between the sod that was in the fairway and the sod in the approaches and tees. The approaches and tees began to heal and fill in much faster than the fairways. All of this sod was laid within a few weeks of each other; some well-performing sod was actually laid later than poorly performing sod. Lastly, the soccer field came through winter almost perfectly and it was laid the latest of all. Zero death from direct winter kill, the Spring Dead Spot instances could be counted on one hand and none bigger than a volleyball, all healed by the 1^st of July. Though there was zero traffic on the soccer field after it was laid, it still gave us some clues for management.

What was the difference? No two years are exactly the same in weather, conditions, turf or anything, so while we have gained some experience and we have new tactics, we cannot say for certain the definite causes of every circumstance. However, we were pretty clearly able to see that mowing with a heavy mower, at too low of a height of cut was very tough on the Bermuda grass. Through the remainder of the summer and into the fall last year, the sod was seemingly fine. It looked and played great, but was never able to store enough energy to survive the winter. Conversely, the approaches and tees that were mowed with lighter machines and at a higher height of cut stored ever slightly more carbohydrates and were able to recover sooner, as best illustrated by the soccer field.

What does that mean for this year? Armed with this new knowledge, this year we have not mowed any of the new sod with anything but our lightest walk mower. We have not lowered the height of cut too low and we have not mowed too often. This is why the new tee, fairway, and approach sod may seem a little shaggy at times.

While we will continue to provide the very best conditions we can the remainder of the year, we are looking out for the best interest of the sod for the future. Having the course play perfectly this fall provides a few weeks of great golf but brings with it the potential for damaging the Bermuda grass before winter, and setting us back months next year.

Etiquette Reminder of the Week

Please obey all signs on the course. Cart exit posts, “No carts” signs, “Please keep off” signs, “Ground under repair” signs, and others are there for the benefit of the turf and to help keep the course in the best condition possible.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Weeds on tees

The battle against weeds is a never ending fight. Basically, a weed is any plant out of place. When defined at that most basic level, the total number of weeds can skyrocket. We are currently struggling with weeds on some of our tee boxes. Most notably, goose grass and crabgrass have taken hold on the tee boxes that have not been converted to Bermuda grass.

Our first step to managing weeds is to apply a preventative, pre-emergent herbicide in the spring. We apply this to collars, tees, fairways and a limited amount of rough. The goal of this application is to create a barrier across the soil that does not allow new seedlings to germinate and emerge above soil. Our application was made April 1^st. At the rate we applied our material we should expect 3-4 months of weed control. However, beginning the day the material hits the soil it begins to break down. Based on the percentage of active ingredient applied, conditions of past weed control and chemicals used, weather, maintenance, and site conditions all help determine if the 3-4 month suppression will be reached. The downside of this approach is there is no real sign that there may be a problem with the “barrier” until weeds begin to show. We had a breakdown in the prevention of weeds in our third month after application.

The biggest factor that caused the preventative weed control to break down was the high amount of rainfall that occurred during the month of June. At Bretton Woods, we recorded 10.5 inches of rain. Not only does that much rain dilute the chemical, it can also push it further down into the soil. When a gap is created between the chemical down deep and the soil surface, it leaves room for weed seeds to germinate in between, either because the chemical is too dilute to be effective or it has been eliminated completely. Secondly, the weed infestations are on the tee boxes that are ryegrass. Ryegrass is not a very dense growing grass, which leaves gaps for weeds to fill. Also, ryegrass does not spread laterally to fill in bare areas as bent grass or Bermuda grass do, again leaving gaps that weeds fill. These gaps may be caused by poor maintenance of the tee, environmental stress on the existing turf grass, or by something as simple as a divot. If we thin the turf with our maintenance routine, we stress the plant and create an opportunity for weeds. If the weather stresses the plant, weeds can take advantage. Even something as simple as a divot- the preventative chemical is removed with the chunk of turf- can create an opening for a weed.

Unfortunately, this is the case on some of our tee boxes. Nothing mentioned above are excuses. We believe the weed control, or lack of, is as embarrassing as any member. We will be making adjustments to our program for the future. Also, the continued conversion to Bermuda grass tees is a huge advantage because of the density of the Bermuda grass, the weeds have no place to establish themselves.

In the meantime, we have already made post-emergent chemical applications that have begun to kill the weeds. You will see the crabgrass turning reddish-brown and dying and the goose grass will be turning white, and dying. We will also be changing our mowing height to encourage healthier ryegrass and seeding where necessary. We continue to take steps to correct this issue because it is as unacceptable in our eyes as yours.

Etiquette Reminder of the Week

Please keep carts on cart paths for the entirety of par 3 holes.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Hydraulic leak

As you are out playing over the next several weeks you will see splotchy dead areas across #4 and #7 greens. We had a hydraulic hose break on our greens’ topdresser and leak hydraulic fluid across both of these greens.

Aerification is a vital, yet nerve-racking time for the Grounds department. During aeration, we put very disruptive machines on our most important surfaces- greens, tees, and fairways. While these machines perform well 99% of the time, things can go wrong.

The topdresser is the machine we use to put the sand on top of the surface of the greens. We use it regularly throughout the season to apply small amounts of sand, and at aeration to apply a heavier rate of sand to fill the holes.

With an accident like this, once the oil hits the turf grass, the grass is dead. Initially anywhere the oil hits, the heat from the oil literally cooks the cells and the plant dies. Sometimes, cooling the plant with water immediately after a leak occurs can lessen the damage to individual plants, but may spread the damage to a greater area as the oil moves with the water. Over the next few days following a leak, the damage will progressively get slightly worse as plants nearest to the oil, but which were not directly hit, begin to contact the oil that remains in the soil. These plants may die or become very weak and turn yellow-brown in color. Finally, a clear definition of death will be seen and the full extent of the damage will be known.

Immediately after the leak occurred

2 days after leak

Planning for recovery of these damaged areas is the biggest step to be taken once a leak occurs. The oil cannot be taken back up from the soil, so moving forward with a plan is crucial. Since this leak occurred as we were aerating the greens, we expect to see about 5% recovery naturally as the greens heal from aeration. Next, once the greens are almost completely healed from aerating, we will come back across with the same aerating machine and aerate only the lines of dead turf. If we don’t wait for the surrounding area of the green to heal from the initial aeration, we could risk ripping out too much turf and being left with large chunks of the green missing. Following this second aeration, we will fill those holes with sand and seed. Then we will fertilize both greens and keep the lines moist throughout the day to encourage seed germination. We will maintain these two greens differently than the rest of the course in order to protect the new seed. We will mow at a slightly higher height of cut and we will use a lighter mower. Once we see significant recovery, we will gradually move towards reincorporating these two greens into our regular routine.

100% recovery in the shortest amount of time is our goal. To accomplish this though, there will be an impact on the playability of these two greens. We will do everything we can to make them as similar to the entire course as we can.

2 days after leak

4 days after leak

6 days after leak

6 days after leak

Etiquette Reminder of the Week

When parking your cart at a tee or green, please keep all 4 tires on the cart path.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Master plan construction update, aeration

This year’s Master Plan construction work is moving along right on schedule. Seeing the changes move from rough dirt piles to completed bunkers and tees is very exciting.

Currently, all work done around 1 and 10 greens is open for regular play. The sod at the greens is still young, so we continue to maintain it separately from our regular routine, but it is plenty mature enough to handle golfers. As the construction progresses back towards the tees, each new aspect will be opened as it is ready. Next will be the fairway bunker complex between 1 and 10, followed by the right fairway bunker on 10. Sod was laid on 10 tee this past Saturday. Since 10 is not a par 3 hole, the tee does not face the same abuse as a par 3 tee would; therefore, we expect 10 tee to most likely open within a couple of weeks. If this had been a par 3 we would have kept play off longer in order to allow the sod to mature further and withstand the divoting better.

This upcoming week is also aeration time for the course. We will be aerating greens, tees, and fairways. This schedule is slightly earlier than last year because it will provide benefits to the Bermuda grass. Since we are in the middle of the best Bermuda grass growing conditions, aerating it now allows it to utilize all of the benefits- relieving compaction, oxygenating the soil, among others- while also being able to grow and heal quickly.

For the greens, even though it is still hot, the turf has been dealing with the stress of summer for a long time and opening up the soil is like a big exhale for the grass. While we must still be diligent with our afternoon monitoring of stress, letting the greens breathe increases the amount of stress they can tolerate. Also, getting the aeration out of the way now paves the way for healing to happen quickly and provides a smooth transition into the busy golf schedule of September.

This is a week of balancing between intense course cultural practices and construction. With construction only a couple of weeks away from completion, getting aeration out of the way as well, will set us up to get the course into terrific shape as we head towards our Member/Guest tournaments.

Etiquette Reminder of the Week

Please leave bunker rakes inside the bunker once you are finished.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Time study

It is common to hear managers in an array of businesses talk about needing more staff. More things would be possible, more tasks could be completed and the overall product would improve. The same is true for golf course maintenance. The more labor a course has the more tasks that can be accomplished simultaneously. One might wonder: why does it take more people? Why can’t those tasks still be accomplished by a small crew just working faster? The answer lies in the length of time basic golf course maintenance tasks take to complete.

The many jobs on a golf course generally take an extensive time to complete. Courses vary in the jobs to be performed, equipment used for those jobs, and timing of when tasks can and must take place. The Grounds department at Bretton Woods tracks how long our tasks take in order to better manage our time, increase efficiency, and improve overall productivity. It is important for our planning purposes to understand the time requirements of each job, and it can also shed light on our routines and procedures for golfers to understand these time requirements as well.

Some of our regular maintenance tasks are listed below along with the time for completion. We track the time of other things we do as well, however they are far more fluid and may not be part of our daily maintenance. The jobs below are performed daily or every other day throughout the season:

·         

      Mowing greens

o   1 person; 3.25-3.75 hours

·         Rolling greens

o   1 person; 3-3.5 hours

o   2 people; 2-2.5 hours

·         Mowing tees

o   1 person; 6-6.5 hours

o   2 people; 4-5 hours

·         Mowing approaches

o   1 person; 3.5-4 hours

o   2 people; 2.5-3 hours

·         Mowing fairways

o   1 person; 7-8 hours

o   2 people; 6-6.75 hours

·         Mowing rough

o   Golf course rough only

§  1 person; 8 hours of mowing over the course of 3 days

§  2 people; 8 hours of mowing over the course of 2-2.5 days

o   Extra rough (Tennis/soccer area, open areas near entrance, large front field at entrance)

§  1 person; 8 hours of mowing over the course of 1.5 days

§  2 people; 6-7 hours

o   Rough around the greens

§  1 person; 8 hours of mowing over the course of 2 days

§  2 people; 6-6.5 hours

o   Rough around the tees

§  1 person; 8 hours of mowing over the course of 1.5 days

§  2 people; 6-6.5 hours

o   Intermediate rough around fairways

§  1 person; 3.5-4 hours

·         Changing cups

o   1 person; 2.5-3 hours

·         Raking bunkers

o   1 person; 4 hours

 *In each instance, the variability in time can be caused by the direction we mow, the order we follow, how many golfers catch and delay the machine, or by the experience of the operator.

Studying the time spent on each of these regular practices illustrates why planning and execution can be critical for our team. Performing a task that takes 4 hours leaves a staff member with only 4 hours left in their day to accomplish anything else. If something goes wrong and the task now takes 4.5 or 5 hours, we become severely limited in what else that staff member may be able to accomplish with the remaining hours in their day. Understanding where labor hours are spent also gives insight into the importance of prioritizing our assignments. Depending on the task, one staff member may only complete 2 or 3 main jobs over their shift. We must make sure those are the 2-3 most important things that person should be working on.

Getting the most out of everyone every day is our goal. We have to keep track of where time is spent in order to better perform all of our regular jobs.

Etiquette Reminder of the Week

Golf carts must always remain on cart paths once past the green and white posts, through the next tee complex. This is not weather dependent!

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org