Fresh bunker sand

Now that the Master plan has been completed, one of our main goals is to maintain the course in this new form. This includes: re-edging bunkers, Bermuda grass weed control, and adding new bunker sand.

In the past couple of weeks, we have continued this process by adding new bunker sand to the right greenside bunker on #9 as well as both fairway bunkers on #8. When planning to add new sand to a bunker, we first decide whether we can simply add new sand on top of the existing sand or if we need to remove the old sand and start fresh. The post above about bunker sand goes into more detail regarding how sand can be lost from a bunker and how it can become contaminated. Luckily, all of the bunkers we did this fall were draining properly and only needed to be refreshed.

Since the Master plan was completed in stages, the new bunkers, etc. will age in stages as well. We keep records and a timeline for when each feature of the course was built. This allows us to plan what needs to be updated and when. With this schedule we can align our bunker sand supply, labor, and weather to allow for the most efficient completion of the task. The schedule also helps us to keep track of the maintenance and help prevent a bunker from being neglected and affecting play.

If we are able to stay on top of the required maintenance of the course, we will avoid slipping into the deferred maintenance slide that preceded the Master plan in the first place.

Please note we have switched to once per month posts for November and running through February. Thank you.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please place your broken tee into the broken tee box near the tee markers whenever possible.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on-course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Divot Repair

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

New rough sprinkler

As we integrate the new elements of the golf course construction into our everyday maintenance, sometimes we have to make adjustments. Last week we made an adjustment to a small section of our irrigation system near the first fairway bunker on #3.

There is a large silver maple tree just to the right of the first fairway bunker on #3, right along the cart path. This tree has been out-competing the turf around it for nutrients, light, and especially water. When this area of #3 was rebuilt in the summer of 2014, the problem was not obvious. 2015 was a marginally cooler and wetter year than normal so the issue was manageable. Then, in 2016 and this past year, we struggled to keep the area in shape. Since this is a common area for tee shots to end up, we decided to add a new sprinkler to help solve the problem.

We had been managing the problem by running sprinklers that were nearby, but it was inefficient. The sprinklers that we were using were too far away to adequately water the area in need, so we had to run them more frequently and for more time than we would have liked. This led to a slight increase in water use as well as water in areas that did not need it. After this season, we felt that by adding an additional sprinkler closer to the tree, we could reduce the run time of two other sprinklers by 75%.

First, we determined the exact spacing we needed for the new sprinkler. Then we removed the sod and dug a trench for the new pipe. Next, we installed new pipe and wires in the trench and placed the new sprinkler at its location. Back-filling, tamping, and the replacing of the sod were the last steps.

We have to wait until next year to see the full potential of the new sprinkler. However, by not having to use the ill-suited sprinklers that didn’t cover the area well, we already know we will be more accurately and efficiently applying water to this zone.

Also, here is a link to a post regarding the poor areas in the rough around the greens: http://teeoffwithjoe.blogspot.com/2017/09/update-on-green-surround-rough.html. We are fully aware of the problem and have devoted much time and resources to solving the issue. We have not corrected the problem and have not given up. Thank you.

Lastly, please note we have switched to once per month posts for November and running through February. Thank you.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please do not use your putter to scrape leaves or other debris off the greens. 

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Divot Repair

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

New trees on holes 11, 12, 13

Trees and turf grass can coexist. They do need their own space and attention, but when selected and placed correctly, the benefits shine through.

Magnolia on #11

We recently added 3 new trees to Bretton Woods. As you are out you will notice them: on the hill above and left of the fairway bunker on #11, to the right of #12 gold tee, and to the right of #13 fairway. Each tree was placed specifically and we used two species that we don’t have anywhere else on the course to add more variety.

First, the tree on #11 was used to break up the large open area above the bunker. When construction removed the bunkers up on the hill and lowered the remaining bunker down near the fairway, a large grass area was left. While not all large open areas immediately need to be filled with trees, this particular spot allowed for the selection of a large tree that can really become a focal point from the tee. Also, this tree will help to shape the inside corner of the dogleg. In consultation with our tree vendor, we selected a Southern magnolia for this location.

Willow oak on #12

Next, we planted a tree to the right of #12 gold tee box. There are currently two locust trees near where we added this new tree. One of the locust trees is very close to the line of play from 12 tee. We decided not to remove it during construction, but rather to limb it back. We also know that as it continues to grow we will have to continually trim it to prevent it from encroaching towards 12 tee. As we repeatedly trim this tree, it may gradually become less and less attractive, or even decline in health. So, we are preemptively planting a replacement tree just behind it. We selected a Willow oak for this location. This is a slow growing tree that will allow the locust trees to continue their growth.

Black tupelo on #13

Finally, we planted a tree to the right of #13 fairway, just passed the new fairway bunkers. This tree is a replacement for an oak that died and was removed last year. The previous tree stuck out towards the fairway and blocked some of the right hand side of the green. After construction, and with the new location of the fairway bunkers, we decided that putting a tree back in the same location did not make as much sense. Instead, we used the new tree to accomplish similar things as the other tree, but in different ways. First, the tree helps separate the 12^th hole from the 13^th hole by providing a screen. The previous tree helped with this, but the new tree is in a more open area and therefore is actually a better divider. Second, this new tree works with the fairway bunkers to shape a slight dogleg, but not to over penalize shots that are missed just marginally right. Previously, a ball could have been in the fairway, but nearly completely blocked from hitting a shot towards the green by the original tree. Now, the hole still has a shape and there is a penalty for missing to the right, just not as penalizing as it used to be. For this position, we chose a Black tupelo tree.

While this wasn’t a large scale planting, we did select very specific locations to enhance the holes to which the new trees were added, while balancing the needs of the turf grass. We also deliberately selected trees that will add to the diversity and visual interest of Bretton Woods’ overall tree stand.

Also, here is a link to a post regarding the poor areas in the rough around the greens: http://teeoffwithjoe.blogspot.com/2017/09/update-on-green-surround-rough.html. We are fully aware of the problem and have devoted much time and resources to solving the issue. We have not corrected the problem and have not given up. Thank you.

Lastly, please note we will be switching to once per month posts starting in November and running through February. Thank you.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be patient with our leaf cleanup process. Thank you.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Halloween Harvest

As we turn towards fall, another task for the Grounds department is helping with the club’s Halloween Harvest event. While this is an event that requires all departments to execute, the Grounds department manages the wagon rides and pumpkin patch portions of the activities.

Each year we host a large event for families centered on Halloween. There are many things for families to do including the wagon rides and pumpkin patch. Leading up to the occasion, we mow a trail out through the back field for the wagons to follow. This loop winds through some interesting terrain and fall colors.

We also mow a large area for our pumpkin patch. We purchase pumpkins and spread them throughout this open area. As part of the wagon ride, we stop at the pumpkin patch; everyone gets out, picks a pumpkin and then finishes the ride back to the clubhouse.

In addition to the mowing and prep work, Grounds staff employees are also the wagon drivers. We rent 2 hay wagons and use our tractors to pull them. The two tractors run pretty much non-stop for a few hours, giving everyone a chance to ride to the pumpkin patch.

One of the unique challenges at Bretton Woods is being able to handle different tasks that can be completely unrelated to turf maintenance. Driving wagons and setting up a pumpkin patch is just one of those instances. So, on the day of Halloween Harvest, the Grounds department’s day is not finished after the morning course setup.

Also, please note, we will be switching to once per month posts starting in November and running through February. Thank you.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious not to scuff your feet or drag your putter along the surface of the putting green. This can adversely affect other people’s putts and can damage the turf grass.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

#10 black tee renovation

The black tee on #10 has always been somewhat of an afterthought. It is very rarely used, and many people don’t even realize it is there. Due to this low profile, the renovation of this tee was done as a minor project rather like the full scale Master Plan construction.

By examining the number of rounds recorded from the black tees, weighing the cost of different scopes of work, and consulting with the golf committee, we agreed that the best solution was a small renovation. Previously, this tee was a mix of several types of grasses and didn’t match any other tees on the golf course. It was never a major issue due to so few rounds being played from there. However, no one wanted to complete construction on every other tee box on the course, except the black tee on ten. We decided a facelift for this tee would be the best option; meaning we would convert the grass species and reshape the tee, but not do any earth-moving.

First, we needed to reshape the tee from an oval to a rectangle to match the other renovated tees. By finding the center point and measuring to each corner, we were able to establish the back edge of the new rectangular tee. Then, by squaring the corners and painting an outline, the new tee shape was formed. Once the outline was drawn, we cut and disposed of the old sod. We readjusted a small amount of soil to make sure the base was level and then brought in new Bermuda grass sod from our nursery that is to the left of hole #6.

Our final step will be to topdress this new sod with sand to make it level and fill in any low spots. Slowly, the grass around the new tee will grow and the new tee will be more defined. Next year, when we start to maintain this new tee similar to all other tees, it will blend in and look exactly the same.

As part of this project, we also cleared two trees that were in the sight line from this back tee. In the mulch bed down near the main #10 tee boxes, there were trees on each side of the cart path. We removed the trees to the right. You can see in the progression of pictures the trees that were taken out. Moving forward, if the trees on the left are deemed to be in the line of play, or eventually grow into the line of play, we will also remove those trees.

Completed tee

While the usage of the tee may not dramatically increase, its maintenance and appearance will now match the other tees.

Also, please note, we will be switching to once per month posts starting in November and running through February. Thank you.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious not to scuff your feet or drag your putter along the surface of the putting green. This can adversely affect other people’s putts and can damage the turf grass.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included a link to a video teaching the proper technique for fixing a ball mark. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Week in review

This week, instead of focusing on one specific topic, we thought a week in review post might be useful.

Water management- It has been very dry lately. If you have been to the course recently, you may have noticed the areas outside of the irrigation coverage turning brown. As of this post we have now received some rain, however, prior to that we had not had any rain for nearly a month. Although temperatures have been moderate and night time temperatures have especially been helpful, the turf grass still needs water. We have been very judicious with our water usage, trying to manage our supply so it will last us until rain returns.

Leaves- It is also the time of year when the leaf management becomes one of our most important tasks. During fall, our blowers are in use nearly every single day, for 6-8 hours per day. We clear playing surfaces first, then double back working on making piles to be vacuumed. We also work to blow the leaves to areas where they can be left for good and don’t need to be collected.

#11 rough addition- We also just completed removal of a mulch area beneath one of the trees to the right of #11 fairway. We replaced the mulch with tall fescue rough grass.

IMF Multi-Sport Day- This past Saturday, the 7^th, was IMF Multi-Sport Day. IMF staff comes to Bretton Woods for many different activities throughout the day. This pulls the Grounds department in many different and unique directions. We prepare the soccer field for a day-long tournament; painting 4 cross fields. We prepare grass and sand volleyball courts and the basketball court. We put up tents. We helped prepare the 5k running trail. In addition, we make sure all of the grounds are mowed, trimmed, and look sharp, while not losing a step on the golf course because there is also a golf tournament.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious not to scuff your feet or drag your putter along the surface of the putting green. This can adversely affect other people’s putts and can damage the turf grass.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included links to videos teaching proper on course etiquette. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

Bunker etiquette

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

New walkway to #2 green

Now that we have renovated the alternate tee on #2, we expect to utilize this area more. With this in mind, we have added a new walkway from the tee to the green.

At a minimum we will have 2 days per week and 1 weekend day where all play will be from this “over the water” tee. With this increased traffic, we felt there needed to be a better way to walk from the tee to #2 green. Many of our rounds are walkers and of these, lots of people walk from tee to green by heading out towards #18 fairway and around. While this is a usable route, it can position golfers too near the line of play from 18 tee.

Although the majority of our membership is aware of the proximity to #18 tee when walking off the alternate #2 tee, awareness does not prevent all accidents. Similarly, even without an incident, either the group walking off the tee or the group playing #18 may have to wait for the other to clear. This is an unnecessary delay in both groups’ round. In order to help alleviate this interruption, the Grounds department mowed a new walk path. This new path hugs the bank of the pond much tighter. Attention must still be paid to the golfers on #18 tee, but the distance one walks out towards #18 fairway has been reduced, thus reducing the potential for problems.

We just recently mowed the tall grass down to accommodate this new walkway. It is perfectly usable, but not trimmed as much as it will be. We also have a few Sycamore tree branches to trim out of the way before we are finished. But the walkway is open and ready to be used, so next time you are out, don’t hesitate to test it out.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious not to scuff your feet or drag your putter along the surface of the putting green. This can adversely affect other people’s putts and can damage the turf grass.

Also, as part of a Golf Committee initiative to improve course etiquette, we have included a link to a video teaching the proper technique for fixing a ball mark. Please take a moment to watch:

Ball Marks - How to properly repair

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Sun angle, day length, and overnight temperatures

In the last few days, summer has made a last ditch effort at a comeback. Before ceding completely to fall, the temperatures have climbed back into the upper 80’s. What is the difference between an upper 80’s day at the end of September versus July or August? It comes down to sun angles/incidence/intensity, day lengths, and overnight temperatures.

July and August are similar enough to generalize the two together as a summer day and compare that to September, which we will describe as a fall day. When we have a day in the upper 80’s to 90 degrees or hotter in the summer that sunlight is hitting our location on the planet at its most direct and its intensity is strongest. This means that the least amount of heat/light/energy is lost through reflection and absorption by the atmosphere. Therefore the suns energy is the most intense. When compared to fall, the suns energy is hitting at a steeper angle and more is impacted by the atmosphere and clouds. So while the temperature rises to a similar degree, it takes longer to achieve that number. Relating this to the golf course, the grass is subjected to less intense heat overall, but even when intensities are equal, it is for a shorter amount of time. So the grass plant has a sprint instead of a marathon. A few hours of warm temperatures are manageable.

The time factor is where day lengths become important. The sun rises later in the day and sets earlier. Therefore, the overall window the sun has to heat the turf is smaller. This heating time partially drives the amount of water lost from the soil and grass plants. If the sun starts heating later and ends earlier, immediately we know that there is less time for water to leave the system. So any water we apply overnight or early in the morning, will last later into the day. Similarly, as it starts to get darker earlier in the evening, the time the sun has to shine its brightest and most intense decreases. In the fall, the warmest part of the day is still near 3pm, but instead of having 4-5 more hours of daylight and intense sun, we now have only 2-4 hours, or less. Accordingly, if we monitor the turf between 1:30-4pm, applying any water as necessary, we can be more confident that water won’t be lost in the remaining daylight hours. In contrast, water applied at that time in summer, may be lost, or as the sun’s intensity continues, other areas may continue to lose more water.

Finally, and possibly most important, are overnight temperatures. In the summer, overnight “lows” can stay in the upper 70’s or even low 80’s. This is especially difficult on the greens. Generally, the turf can handle the heat stress of a hot day when it has a chance to recover overnight. When the temperatures are too warm the turf cannot adequately cool itself and recover from the stress of the day. Moreover, many of the disease issues we face are exacerbated by the warm overnights. The warmth and humidity are perfect for fungus and trouble for the turf. However, once we reach fall, the overnights temperatures start falling to more comfortable levels. The lower temperatures allow the plant to properly transpire and perform metabolic processes to heal and defend against all stress. Now, even when we have a warm day, the turfgrass plants are able to recuperate and prepare for the next day.

These are some of the keys to difference between summer and fall. By understanding these factors, the Grounds department is able to push the turfgrass a little harder so that the conditions of the course are ready for the busy golf calendar of the fall.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

After filling your divot with sand, either on a tee or fairway, please smooth the sand pile out so our mowers don’t cut through the sand.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Native area maintenance

Our native areas have been an area of focus for the Grounds staff over the last several years. In order to return them more to native areas and less of wild areas, we have taken a few measures.

The last few years we have been slowly adjusting our native area maintenance program. The original concept for the native areas is discussed in more detail here. We have slowly increased the amount of inputs for the tall grass areas without converting them to regular rough and mowing them multiple times per week.

Our first step has been minimal chemical inputs to help control the most troublesome weeds. This past year we treated about 1/3 of the total native areas in order to clean up the most visible of spots. This is our second year of spring weed treatment and results have been promising. We have seen much higher concentrations of native grasses versus weed species and the aesthetics have improved. In addition, we will be making one more herbicide application this fall to help eliminate any weeds that survived the initial application and grew through the summer. This was not originally planned, but we have some product left over from spring from another program.

Our second, and most important, tool for maintaining the native areas is through mowing. Our goal has been to mow them 2-4 times per year. We are working on completing our second cut this week. We had hoped to get this mowing done back in August, but with construction, aeration, and regular maintenance, we were unable to make time. However, we are still accomplishing it early enough to allow for one more cut in late November or early December. A late summer and winter mowing help to injure and weaken some of the weeds by cutting off the crown of the plant. Even weeds that are not killed are severely stunted, and the grass, which handles the mowing much better, is given a competitive advantage over those weeds. Then, with the added herbicide application, we hope to really make progress against the weeds.

Sometimes native areas can be no-maintenance and sometimes they can be low-maintenance. We are working on making the native areas at Bretton Woods a little nicer and more aesthetically pleasing. To do this, we have to take a low-maintenance approach. With minimal time and labor inputs we have seen a slow transition to better grass areas.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

After filling your divot with sand, either on a tee or fairway, please smooth the sand pile out so our mowers don’t cut through the sand.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Update on green surround rough

We continue to battle the rough grass around the greens so we added some new wrinkles to our approach this year. While our long term plan has shown progress, it is one area of the course that still really needs improvement.

The grass around the greens is a mix of several different species of grass: tall fescue, ryegrass, bluegrass (annual and Kentucky) and Bermuda grass. The ryegrass and bluegrasses do not handle the summer weather well and decline and die and bare spots result. Since there is not one cause of the poor performance of these grasses, this unfortunately means there is not one solution either. Weather, soil, grass species, traffic stress, and more all contribute to the problem.

This summer was not as hot or as long as previous years, so as a result the grass was not as decimated. Some of our strategies also helped the grass survive. First, for several years (read a 2015 post here) we have been over-seeding the green surrounds with tall fescue. Tall fescue is the most drought and heat tolerant of the grass species available to us. It is easily grown from seed and we have a very good seeding machine to use. We have already done this once and we will do it again in the fall. Continually pouring more desirable species into the green surrounds will continue to lower the percentage of unwanted species and lead to less collapse.

Last year we instituted a hand-watering program specifically aimed at the rough around the greens. We saw tremendous benefit and so we continued, and increased it this year. Hand-watering the green surrounds consists of exactly what it sounds: we send 2-4 staff members with hoses to hand water the rough around the greens, from the collar out 15 feet. There is more information on the process as well as some of the reasoning behind it here.  We again saw huge benefits and it will be a staple of our maintenance program going forward.

We also tested 2 different chemicals this year designed to help the soil retain moisture. We sprayed them specifically on the rough around the greens. We saw improved water retention from both, as well as a clear favorite to continue to use next year. Although too much water can be just as bad (or worse) for turf, this ability to hold and retain more water was helpful for the rough. More water holding capacity of the soil means that our hand watering and irrigation are used more effectively. Having more water available to the plant during the heat, when we are between rain storms or irrigation schedules, helps more plants survive. With additional hand watering and the sprinkler adjustments we have made in the past (more information on that here), this new chemical makes maintaining adequate soil moisture easier and improved turf health resulted.

We don’t intend to minimize the problem or imply it is corrected. This is something we continue to work on improving. Although any turf loss is frustrating, improvements have been made. Some of the problems are issues we can resolve and some are weather related that will always be present, but we do constantly make adjustments to get better results.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

After filling your divot with sand, either on a tee or fairway, please smooth the sand pile out so our mowers don’t cut through the sand.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Soccer field maintenance

August is a time to do a little catch up. We aerate greens, tees, and fairways. We apply our compost to the Bermuda grass. In general, we are trying to relieve the turf from a long summer of stress and prepare it for a productive fall. We apply the same concept to the soccer field.

Since we built (rebuilt) the second soccer field, we have been able to close the upper soccer field for 3-4 weeks in August to attend to much needed maintenance without having to work around regular use. By closing the field, we are able to take all of the traffic off of the upper field, redirect it to the lower field, and give the turf on upper field a much needed break.

For this month of closure we perform several cultural practices. First, we aerate the field. This is similar to the process we do on the fairways, but in this instance we don’t pull any material out of the field. At the end of a long summer, the roots of the turf are so weak that if we try and pull a core, most of the field pulls right up with it. So we simply poke a hole instead. Following aeration, we apply the same compost as on the Bermuda grass. Next, we topdress the entire field with sand. For the last few years, we have been lucky enough to have old bunker sand available to use as top dressing material. We spread this on very generously, especially down the center of the field. Once the compost and sand are applied, we drag. Dragging helps to redistribute the sand and compost down into the holes created from aeration. It also moves material from high areas to low areas to help level the entire surface. Our last step is to seed the field.

Each spring we seed the field to start the season. The field is at its strongest right after this seeding, as the weather warms up, and the turf really starts to grow. Think of how thick, green, and healthy the rough is on the golf course; that is the equivalent of the soccer field. As spring turns to summer, after many matches and soccer camp use the field, and the heat turns up, the field slowly declines; again, compare it to the rough on the golf course towards the end of summer. Our resources are most often outmatched by these factors and we keep the field respectable, but it is not World Cup quality. So, come August, after the long summer, it is time to seed again. We seed 3 to 4 times, all in different directions, to incorporate as much new grass as possible.

Our last step is to lay new sod in some of the areas that are too damaged for even the seed to repair. Usually they are always the same areas: both goal mouths, center field, as well as a few low areas that always puddle. We level out the low areas, lay new sod, and then fertilize the whole field.

Ideally, we accomplish all of these steps in the first 7-10 days that the field is closed, and use the remainder of the time to let everything grow and heal so that the new turf is as mature as possible once we reopen.

By the time we reopen the field, the weather has usually retreated from its July/August peak and the turf is not subjected to the same stresses. The new seed thickens and the field is ready for a busy fall season.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

After filling your divot with sand, either on a tee or fairway, please smooth the sand pile out so our mowers don’t cut through the sand.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Master Plan recap continued

"A picture is worth a thousand words." To continue to celebrate the conclusion of the Master Plan, this week's blog will be lots and lots of pictures. We tried to select some representative pictures of every hole on the course. Some are better than others. Some holes we have pre-renovation and post-renovation pictures and other holes we only have post-renovation. Please enjoy.

On the left is the view from the tee before construction and the right is from the fairway to the green after work was complete.

On the left is pre-renovation and the right is post-renovation.

The picture on the left gives an idea of how much dirt was moved and grass replaced. The two pictures on the right are
both after renovation.

The picture on the left is an example of one of the main objectives of the Master Plan: drainage. The picture on the
right is after work was complete.

The left picture is before construction. Both pictures on the right are post-renovation.

The left and top right pictures are pre-construction. The bottom right picture is post-construction.

The left and top right pictures are before work and the bottom right is after work was complete.

Both pictures are after construction was complete.

This picture is following construction work.

The picture on the left is the left green bunkers before construction. The picture on the right is the green complex after
work was complete.

The picture on the left is a view from tee to fairway pre-renovation. The picture on the right is the same view
post-renovation.

This picture is during renovation.

This picture is post-renovation.

The top picture is after construction was complete. The bottom two pictures are both before construction.

The bottom left picture is another example of the need for drainage work. At the time of the picture, those puddles had
already been there for two days. The top and bottom right pictures are both after work was complete.

The picture on the left is pre-renovation and the picture on the right is post-renovation.

The top picture is pre-construction and the bottom picture is post-construction.

The picture on the left is before construction. Another main objective of the Master Plan was to fully rebuild bunkers
that no longer drained properly. This picture is a perfect example. The picture on the right is after construction.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious to not cut corners with your golf cart. The inside edges of turns are easily worn out after repeated traffic.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Master Plan recap

All earth moving has been completed for the Bretton Woods Master Plan. This is a tremendous achievement for the club and the golf course. It cannot be overstated the importance in persevering through to the end of this project. No one knows this better than former Superintendent and Current Assistant General Manager/Director of Grounds, Bryan Bupp. We felt he could provide a unique perspective having been here for the entire process. Below are his thoughts on where we came from to where we stand today:

The Master Plan of Golf Course Renovations was truly a deferred maintenance program. What players notice are the enhanced design elements, but the meat of the plan has much farther reaching benefits. To illustrate some of the maintenance benefits, we have some interesting comparisons from prior to the beginning of the renovations (2005) and today.

2005                   2017

% live turf coverage in fairways Aug 15:                  < 50                     100                                                

Number of bunkers needing repair after 1” rain event:   14                  0               

Labor hours to repair damaged 

bunkers after 1” rain event:                                         12                         0

Number of bunkers holding water after 1” rain event:    32                      0

Labor hours to remove standing 

water in bunkers after 1” rain event:                             30                        0

Fairways and Tees mowing days lost after 1” rain event:    2                    <1

Average number of ducks 

swimming in 15 fairway after 1” rain event:               3                     0, no puddles to swim in

Greens maintenance days lost after 1” rain event:      1                        0 typically

Turf quality rating on 

#7 Green in August:                                          Poor to Ugly                Good to Very Good

At my first day of class as a turf student at the University of Maryland, my Turf Management 101 professor told the entire class that if anyone could give him the three most important factors in successful turf management, that student would receive and A for the semester and not have to come back to class. After a few minutes of desperate guessing, he told us that nobody was correct. He then listed these factors on the whiteboard:

1.       Drainage

2.       Drainage

3.       Drainage

The point to this is that of all the things we see and all the things we accomplished, the most enduring, most important and most successful accomplishments are Drainage, Drainage and Drainage.

There is an exciting aspect to having construction work occurring on the course during the summer. However, the Grounds department is particularly excited for the summers to come because we will be 100% focused on maintaining the course and not splitting focus with construction work. We hope you enjoy the improvements to the course.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious to not cut corners with your golf cart. The inside edges of turns are easily worn out after repeated traffic.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Converting tees to Bermuda grass

As part of the finishing touches of the Master Plan, we will be re-sodding the ryegrass tees on 6, 7, and 9 to Bermuda grass. This will be occurring over the next few days. During this transition, tee markers may be in different locations.

The tees on 6 are all still ryegrass so the tee markers will be placed in the rough in front of the tee boxes. We will mow a clean area for the markers.

On holes 7 and 9, there is only one individual tee box on each hole that remains to be converted. On these holes, the tee markers will be moved forward or backward a single tee box to accommodate the work.

Once the new sod has started to root, we will begin to incorporate it into our maintenance. However, please remember, we will be mowing the new sod at a higher height of cut for the remainder of this season. We expect these new tee boxes to be back into regular rotation within 2 weeks.

Thank you for your patience during this period. The transition to Bermuda grass is for the overall improvement of the course.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious to not cut corners with your golf cart. The inside edges of turns are easily worn out after repeated traffic.

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org

Seeding ballmarks

Ball marks are an unavoidable aspect of golf. No matter the region, membership, skill level or any other factor, every course has to deal with ball marks. In a perfect world every ball mark would be fixed immediately after creation, but that is never the case. The grounds department uses 2 main tactics to combat ball marks on a regular basis.

If you are interested in more information regarding the steps to fix a ball mark, please read this post from the summer of 2016. There are different ways to fix a ball mark. Sometimes, some of the information can be almost contradictory. However, as long as a golfer does not try and pry the soil straight back up to level the surface, most other tactics will end in a better result than doing nothing. Yet, ball marks are always still present, and we can’t spend our time fixing every single one.

The tiny seedlings from our sand
and seed mixture are visible
in the center of this ball mark

Our fist strategy to helping minimize the negative aspects of ball marks is through sand topdressing. Topdressing provides many benefits to the turf grass and to the playability for golfers. One of those benefits is that it helps to smooth the putting green. Ball marks are one of the low areas that sand can settle into and fill in, so that the ball mark is even with the rest of the green. When we spread the sand, the ball mark accumulates more sand than the area around it, thus filling in. We do not add seed to the sand when we are just topdressing, so healing occurs from grass around the ball mark growing inwards. The key, though, is that the sand ensures that the new grass is growing at nearly the same height as the rest of the putting green, rather than in the bottom of the ball mark.

We spend most of our time filling ball marks with our sand and seed mixture during the fall, when the weather is much more ideal for seed germination and growth. Following up on this post from last fall, we have continued to use our ball mark repair tool. This tool deposits a small amount of sand and seed into the ball mark. The sand levels the surface and the seed establishes new grass in the vacant hole.

We don’t expect the battle against ball marks to end any time soon. Luckily, we do have some techniques for contending with the issue and maintaining the best putting surfaces possible.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please be conscious to not cut corners with your golf cart. The inside edges of turns are easily worn out after repeated traffic.

See you on the course!

Joe
jvillegas@bwrc.org

17 green update

Last week we wrote about how the end of the summer can take a toll on the greens. 17 green was mentioned as one of the greens struggling with the heat, humidity, and excess moisture. A few areas of #17 green have needed some extra attention lately.

Puddles indicate where drainage is suffering. These are the same areas
where the turfgrass is suffering also.

Root mass and health is directly related to the surface height of cut. As grass is mowed lower, roots become shorter; as grass is allowed to grow taller, roots grow longer. The above ground leaf tissue supports the roots and if there is more leaf tissue, the roots grow more. On putting greens, this becomes particularly valuable. Putting greens are mowed at very small fractions of inches, often under 1/8”. This means that we are managing roots on the slimmest of margins because we have as little top growth as possible. Raising the mowing height by as little as 0.03” can increase photosynthesis by 25%.

Thin areas in the back right of green

We raised the mowing height on 17 green immediately upon recognition of stress. In conjunction with the raised mowing height, we also stopped use of our heavier triplex greens mower in favor of our light-weight walking greens mower. While we don’t have the resources to walk mow greens as a regular practice, it becomes a very effective tool in aiding a green or two that are struggling. Simply the decrease in stress from weight can help turfgrass recover. Added to a higher height of cut and we can quickly provide a break to the grass.

Our hand dimpling tool

We also had some areas along the back right edge that were suffering more than other locations on the green. It is no surprise these are the areas that are particularly poor draining, where water can sit for days after a rainstorm if not removed by the Grounds department. In these areas, we spread some bent grass seed, dimpled small holes in which the seed can germinate, and then covered the seed with a light layer of sand to protect it. While the long term solution is a soil drainage issue, in the short term we are introducing more bent grass to the area because bent grass is better equipped to handle the heat, humidity, and excess moisture that Poa annua cannot.

After dimpling and seeding

The fan was out at 17 green for a stint last week, then as the green began to dry slowly we brought the fan back in so as to not dry the green out too much. When we had a few days of lower humidity, blowing air across the green can dry it out too fast, leading to another type of stress: moisture stress. Now, after the rain we just received, the fan is back out and helping to evaporate excess water.

All of these things may seem insignificant individually, but together they have already helped 17 green. While we are not happy with the current condition of the green, we have taken the proper measures to prevent it from deteriorating further. We monitor it several times during the day to make sure no other steps need to be taken.

As a side note: Aeration starts this week. Monday, the putting green and front 9 are closed, and the back 9 is open. Tuesday, the chipping green and back 9 are closed, and the front 9 is open. Wednesday and Thursday will be used as catch-up days for anything that couldn’t be finished Monday or Tuesday. We are aerating greens, tees, and fairways, as well as applying the compost material to the fairways like we have in the past.

Etiquette Reminder of the Month

Please leave bunker rakes IN the bunkers when you are finished

See you on the course!

Joe

jvillegas@bwrc.org